INTERSTATE STANDARD
SEWING PRODUCTS Quality control methods
Ready-made sewing goods. Methods of quality control
MKS 61.020 OKP 85 0000
1. This standard applies to all types sewing products and establishes methods for quality control of finished products.
2. The quality of products is controlled on a table with a horizontal surface. In addition, the quality of clothing with sides and fastening to the bottom - coats, short coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets and other similar products (except for work and special clothing) is controlled on mannequins or fashion models; the quality of the hats is on the forms.
(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
3. Dummies used to control the quality of products must comply with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation.
4. To control linear measurements of products, stitch frequency and the size of defects in the appearance of materials, use a non-folding measuring ruler, tape measure, ring gauge, triangle with a division value of 1 mm, textile magnifying glass, protractor.
5. Measurements are made with measuring instruments that have passed state tests in accordance with GOST 8.001-80 *.
6. Methods for quality control of finished products must comply with table. 1.
7. The appearance and fit of the product is determined in ironed, marketable products, on mannequins of a typical build; figures or forms of appropriate sizes.
8. Methods for measuring main and auxiliary linear measurements of products must correspond to those indicated in table. 2-9 and to hell. 1-9.
6-8. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
* In the territory Russian Federation PR 50.2.009-94 applies.
Edition (March 2007) with Change No. 1, approved in March 1986 (IUS 6-86).
© Standards Publishing House, 1982 © Standartinform, 2007
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
15 (drawing 5) |
Spline length |
There are slots along the edge from the bartack to the edge of the bottom of the product or the inner edge of the stitching part. |
|
In the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the tack |
||
|
16 (Fig. 6) |
Length of knee pad or other reinforcement pads |
Along the middle from top to bottom |
|
17 (Fig. 6) |
Length of the sides of the knee pad or other reinforcing pads | |
|
18 (Fig. 6) |
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the top |
Between the top corners |
|
19 (Fig. 6) |
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the bottom |
Between the bottom corners |
|
20 (Fig. 6) |
Location of the knee pad or other reinforcing parts |
From the edge of the main part to the corner or edge of the knee pad or other reinforcement parts |
|
21 (Fig. 6) |
Lei width at top |
From the edge of the lei on the back half to the middle seam (when connecting the middle sections closed seam or with a seam into the lock, measurements are taken along the right half) or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
22 (Fig. 6) |
At the level of the middle seam from the edge of the lei on the back half to the edge of the lei on the front half or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
23 (Fig. 6) |
Lei width at knee level |
From the top corner, edge of the lei on the front half to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half |
|
24 (Fig. 6) |
Width of the lei at the bottom |
From the bottom corner of the edge, on the front half, to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half, or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
25 (Fig. 6) |
Length of the sides of the lei |
Along the sides from the top corner to the bottom |
|
26 (Fig. 6) |
Length of the lei along the crotch seam |
Along the crotch from the top edge (at the middle seam) to the bottom of the lei |
|
27 (Fig. 6) |
Location of the lei along the middle seam |
Along the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the top edge of the lei |
|
35 (drawing 5) |
Along the entrance to the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
|
36 (Fig. 5) |
Flap width, leaves, pocket frames |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges; in figured valves additionally measured in wide areas |
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
Basic measurements
Skirt length
Skirt waist width
Skirt width at hip level
Along the middle of the front and back panels from the top edge or waistband seam to the bottom
Along the upper edge of the belt or skirt (buttoned, with an elastic band threaded through)
From the left to the right side fold or from the middle of the front panel to the middle of the back (measured at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product)
Auxiliary measurements
Skirt bottom width
The width of the belt
Length of the cut (clasp) of the skirt
From the edge of the left to the edge of the right side fold in a straight line or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back panel of the skirt or according to the technical documentation for the product
Between the top and bottom edges of the belt
Along the edge of the slit from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the skirt to the bartack
|
Table 5 |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Double strap half length |
Along the strap from the inner edge of the loop to the end of the strap |
|
|
Band width |
At the ends and in the middle from one edge to the other |
|
|
10 (drawing 7) |
Cap front height |
Above the middle of the visor from the seam of the visor to the seam of the bottom |
|
Wedge length |
In the middle of the wedge from the bottom to the corner of the wedge at the top or to the center of the button |
|
|
12 (Fig. 7) |
Wedge width |
Along the bottom edge between the wedge seams |
|
13 (Fig. 7) |
Beret height |
From the bottom edge to the bottom stitching seam |
|
14 (Fig. 7) |
Bottom length and width |
Measure along two mutually perpendicular lines (diameters), while the line in front must coincide with the seam of the walls (in caps that have a piping along the bottom, the width of the piping is not included in the measurement) |
|
15 (drawing 7) |
Length of the longitudinal arc of the head |
From the front cutout, the seam connecting the head with the brim, visor and other parts through the middle of the head to the other edge |
|
16 (drawing 7) |
Margin width |
Front, back and sides from the edge of the brim to the stitching seam to the head |
|
17 (drawing 7) |
Side length |
Along the seam of attaching the side to the head from one end to the other |
|
18 (drawing 7) |
Side height |
In the middle from the seam of stitching the side to the head to the edge |
|
19 (Fig. 7) |
Earphone length |
In the middle of the earphone from the stitching seam to the head to the edge |
|
20 (drawing 7) |
Earphone width |
At the level of the top edge of the side from one edge to the other |
|
21 (Fig. 7) |
Hat string length |
From the place of stitching to the end of the tie in a straightened form |
|
22 (Fig. 7) |
Cap wall height |
Front, back and sides from the bottom edge to the seam of the wall to the bottom |
|
2? (Fig. 7) |
Cap bottom width |
In the middle of the bottom between the stitching seams to the sides of the head |
|
24 (Fig. 7) |
The height of the sides of the cap |
Front, back and sides from the bottom to the top edge of the side |
|
25 (drawing 7) |
Hood face length |
Along the edge of the front opening of the double-folded hood from the bottom corner to the fold |
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
Basic measurements
Length of the product In the middle of the product and on the sides of one
edge to the other
When measuring, large-sized products are placed along the table with the sides aligned, folded in half, with the sides facing the person measuring
Product width In the middle and along the edges of the product
Auxiliary measurement
quilted
On four sides; along the edges and in the middle of each side from stitch to edge
|
Corsetry Table 7 |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
Basic
Length of the product
measurements
In a straight line from top to bottom
Product width Length of stick
From one fold to another at the level of the fold there is a stick thumb
From the bend line to the top edge of the stick
Auxiliary measurements
Handheld length
Length of the gaiter Width of the gaiter
In a straight line from top to bottom
In a straight line from the edge to the stitching seam or according to the technical documentation for the product
Folded in half in a straight line from fold to fold
Table 9
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
43 (Fig. 4)
44 (Fig. 4)
Product length Product width Strap length
basic measurements
In a straight line along the product from top to bottom
In a straight line at waist level from edge to edge
Straight in the middle or along the inner, outer edge in accordance with the technical documentation
Notes to the table 2-9:
1. It is allowed to use a soft measuring tape. If disagreements arise regarding the control results, the soft tape is checked using the measuring instruments specified in i. 4.
2. Product measurements are made without tension, folds and wrinkles with an error of no more than + 1 mm.
3. Depending on the features of the model, the measurement locations and their number may be changed.
|
Crap. 3 Damn. |
Table 1
1. Details of organoleptic
Varny and kontki roll labels
2. Appearance
2.1. Compliance of the appearance of the product and its configuration with the standard sample
2.2. Wet heat treatment
3. Product fit
4. Materials (presence of defects in the appearance of materials)
Clear application of details
Organol eptic
The product is compared with a reference sample and the appearance of the product is checked for compliance with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documentation for the product.
Organoleptic
The product is put on the mannequin, fastened, the back, shelves, sides, lapels, collar and sleeves are adjusted.
Product fit outerwear without sides, light clothing, lingerie and corsetry products are checked simultaneously with checking the quality of workmanship of the entire product
When checking the collar-neck connection, measure the distance from the middle seam of the lower collar to the corner of the shoulder seam and neck and from the shoulder seam to the lapel notch.
Organoleptic and measuring.
Check by external inspection from the top and lining, including closed parts of the product, guided by the requirements of the standards for grading of finished products
Reference sample, mannequin
Reference sample, mannequin
Sample - standard, mannequin, ruler, tape measure
Standard sample for materials, ruler, tape measure, textile magnifying glass
Compliance in silhouette, proportions, design solutions of lines, nodes, parts, materials used (color, texture, compliance with the purpose of the product) with the standard sample and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
Compliance with the standard sample; clarity of design lines (elements, parts); there should be no creases, folds, wrinkles, seams, lasses or opals
Compliance with the standard sample. There should be no creases, wrinkles or distortions;
the shelves should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the model, the sides should not be deformed;
the corners of the collar and lapels should not bend, the collar should not be skewed, the neck should not be stretched or over-set, the collar should fit snugly to the neck and cover the stitching seam into the neck in those products where this is provided for by the standard sample, the bend line of the lapels should not must be lower or higher than that established by the standard sample;
the sleeves should not deviate forward or backward, the fit of the sleeves along the armholes should be distributed in accordance with the standard sample;
the sides of the splines should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the standard sample; the upper side of the spline should fit snugly to the bottom;
the top of the product, lining, gaskets must not be deformed as a result of shortening, narrowing or distortion
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
Object of control
5. Execution of individual components and parts
5.1. Symmetrical shape and arrangement of paired parts
5.2. Location of parts
5.3. Edges of parts
Organoleptic and measuring.
Combine paired parts and measure them.
The symmetry of the sides is checked by folding the sides, aligning the ends of the ledges, the upper edges of the lapels and the lower corners of the sides; At the same time, check the symmetry of the location of the loops and buttons.
The symmetry of the ends of the collar is checked by folding the collar in the middle, aligning the shoulder seams.
The symmetry of the sleeves is checked by comparing them with each other and measuring from the shoulder seam to the first seam of the sleeve.
Measuring.
Measure the distance of the parts from the seams or edges of the product.
The position of parts located at an angle to the edge of the main part is checked using a triangle or a protractor.
The location of folds and reliefs is checked by measuring the distance between the folds and reliefs
Organoleptic and measuring.
The shape and evenness of the edges of the parts are checked by external inspection.
The evenness of the straight edges of the parts is checked by placing the edge of the ruler on the edge of the part and measuring the deviations in individual areas from the straight line
Sample - standard, dummy, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure
Symmetrical shape, size and arrangement of paired parts and parts of the product: lapels, sides, yokes,
pockets, collar ends, sleeves, sleeve cuffs and trouser lows, folds, reliefs, gathers, flounces, ruffles, trims, embroideries, etc. in accordance with the standard sample
Compliance with the standard model and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation. In hats, the middle of the visor should coincide with the middle of the band, wall, head, front
Correspondence of design lines to the standard sample; there should be no curvature or disruption of the edge configuration of the part
5.6. Stitches, lines and seams Organoleptic - Tape measure, ruler, cue and measuring instrument - textile magnifying glass. The evenness of the stitches and seams is checked by external inspection. With pronounced curvature affecting appearance and the strength of the product, measure the length of the seam or stitch section where curvature is allowed, and determine the amount of curvature. The stitch frequency is checked by counting the number of stitches per 5 cm of line, buttonholes - per 1 cm of line 5.7. Internal fastening of parts The tension of the threads in the lines is checked by external inspection. Organoleptic Check by touch, slightly pulling the bonded layers of material |
There should be no gaps, tension or slackness of the material and threads in the stitches, curvature of the stitches and seams; the location of the stitches from the edges of the parts or seams, the presence of bartacks and securing the ends of the stitches, the frequency of stitches and the width of the seams, the color and number of thread folds - in accordance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions |
5.8. Adhesive connection of parts
Organoleptic
Check by touch, slightly moving the bonded layers
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions; there should be no glue on the front or back side of the product, peeling or warping
5.9. Processing fasteners, bartacks, fastening accessories
5.10. Quilting the parts
5.11. Availability of internal gaskets
5.12. Tolerances
5.13. Slices
Organoleptic and measuring.
Check by fastening or aligning the sides, trims, bow of trousers, edges of the zipper, etc.
The correct direction of straight loops is checked by applying a right triangle, aligning one leg with the edge of the part or pattern of the material, the other with the slot of the loop, and oblique loops with a protractor.
Sewing buttonholes and bartacks, fastening of accessories is checked by external inspection and counting the number of stitches
Ruler, tape measure, right triangle, textile magnifying glass, protractor
Organoleptic - Standard sample, cue and measuring ruler, tape measure
Organoleptic
Check by touch, moving the layers in relation to each other
Organoleptic and measuring.
The location, number and dimensions of extensions are checked according to regulatory and technical documentation
Ruler, tape measure
Organoleptic - Standard sample, cue and measuring ruler, tape measure.
Overcasting, edging, fusing, cutting out sections is checked by external inspection, measuring sections
There should be no slack or tension in the material; size, shape, direction, coincidence of the transverse pattern along the edge of the fastener - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation
Compliance with the standard sample; there should be no distortions of parts; thickness (weight) and uniformity of the filler flooring - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
Compliance with the standard sample, the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation and technological regimes. The cuts should be elastic and should not crumble.
table 2
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
(Fig. 1, 2)
10 (drawing 1)
Axles Back Length
Back width
ovary measurements
Along the middle of the back from the collar seam to the bottom.
For a product without a collar, measure from the edge of the middle of the back neck to the bottom
Between the seams of the sleeves, the edges of the armholes (in products without sleeves) in the narrowest place at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product
Product width, armhole depth
The length of the sleeve
Collar length
at the level
Waist width
Hip Line Width
at the level
In men's and children's shirts with a fastener buttoned down to the bottom
Along the middle of the top from the highest point of the cuff to the bottom or bottom edge of the cuff.
In a raglan or one-piece sleeve - along the middle of the upper part or along the middle seam from the collar stitching seam to the bottom
Along the seam, sew the collar into the neck from one end to the other end or in a straight line.
Shirt collar - along the stand between the outer ends of the loops or from the outer end of the loop to the center of the button.
In shirts made to government order, from the center of the button to 1/3 of the buttonhole (from its outer edge)
Along the waistline from the edge of the side to the middle of the back.
In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back.
In a product that is not cut off along the waist line, measurements are taken at the level specified in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product
Along the hip line from the edge of the side to the middle of the back.
In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back.
The measurement is carried out at the level of the technical documentation for the product
Auxiliary measurements
Product width at bottom
Length of the back to the waist in products cut at the waist line
Back yoke length
specified in
From the edge of the side to the middle of the back.
In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back in a straight line
Along the middle of the back from the collar sewing seam or the edge of the middle back neckline (in a product without a collar) to the sewing seam along the waist line
Along the middle of the back from the seam of the collar or the edge of the middle of the back neck (in a product without a collar) to the bottom of the yoke
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Front length |
Along the shelf from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom, parallel to the edge of the bead or the half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product. |
|
12 (Fig. 2) |
Length of the front to the waist in products cut at the waist line |
Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the level of the waist line, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
13 (Fig. 2) |
Front yoke length |
Along the front or front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom of the yoke, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the line of the middle front or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Front or chest width |
From the sleeve seam to the edge of the bead at the narrowest point. |
|
In a product without sides - between the seams of the sleeves in the narrowest place. |
||
|
In a raglan cut product and with one-piece sleeves, measurements are taken at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
||
|
15 (Fig. 2) |
Length of shoulder or lapel at top |
Along the edge of the ledge of the side or lapel from the end of the ledge to the corner of the side or lapel |
|
16 (drawing 1) |
Strap length |
Along the middle of the strap between its ends or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
17 (Fig. 1) |
Length of strap made of parts |
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end of each part or from one end to the other or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
18 (drawing 1) |
Belt length |
Along the middle of the belt from the edge of the belt to the buckle to the end or according to the technical documentation for the product. |
|
Belt without buckle - between the ends of the belt |
||
|
19 (drawing 1) |
Width of strap or belt |
At the ends of the strap, belt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
(Fig. 2, 3) |
Sleeve width at top |
At the top along the bottom of the sleeve in a straight line at the level of the largest part opening (in one-piece sleeves - at the level of the undercut corners) from the roll fold to the elbow bend or from the front fold to the back |
|
21 (Fig. 2) |
Sleeve width at elbow level |
Folded in half between the folds from the highest point of the sleeve at the distance specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
22 (Fig. 2) |
Sleeve width at bottom |
Double folded |
|
23 (Fig. 3) |
Cuff width |
At the ends or in the middle of the cuff from the top edge to the bottom |
|
24 (Fig. 3) |
Cuff length |
Along the cuff from one end to the other or folded in half |
|
25 (Fig. 3) |
Elbow pad length |
Along the middle of the elbow pad or along the seam from the top edge to the bottom |
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
|
26 (Fig. 3) |
Elbow pad width |
Along the top and bottom edges in the widest part |
|
|
27 (Fig. 1) |
Spline length |
There are slots along the outer edge from the bartack to the bottom |
|
|
28 (Fig. 4) |
Collar width |
At the ends and in the middle of the lower collar from the stitching seam (or stitching) or from the lower edge of the stand to the edge of the flyaway |
|
|
29 (Fig. 4) |
Rack width |
At the ends and in the middle of the stand from the stitching seam to the edge of the stand |
|
|
30 (drawing 4) |
Departure width |
At the ends and in the middle of the take-off from the stitching seam to the edge of the take-off |
|
|
31 (Fig. 2) |
Plank length |
Along the middle of the placket from the seam of the collar or cuff, waistband to the end of the toe or the bottom edge of the placket |
|
|
32 (Fig. 2) |
Plank width |
Above - between the edges, below - between the upper corners of the toe or edges |
|
|
33 (Fig. 2) |
From the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap and in the place provided for in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
||
|
34 (Fig. 2) |
Location of leaves, welt and patch pockets, valves |
From the edge of the side or the middle of the front to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap |
|
|
Length of valve, leaflet, pocket entrance |
Along the opening of the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket, or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
||
|
Width of leaflet, flap, pocket frame |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges. In shaped valves, additional measurements are taken in wide areas |
||
|
37 (Fig. 3) |
Hem width |
At the top at the level of the stitching of the end of the collar, at the bottom from the edge of the side to the seam of the stitching of the lining or to the inner edge of the lining in products without lining. |
|
|
In a product with lapels with an obtuse angle - from the corner of the lapel to the seam of the lining. |
|||
|
In a product with rounded sides - at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product From back half fold to front half fold or from side fold to step fold From the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half or from the side fold to the step fold (measured at the level specified in the technical specifications for the product) Along the edge of the hem from the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half, or from the side fold to the instep fold, or along the bottom edge of a double folded cuff Along the edges of the fold and along the seams from the top edge to the bottom Along the middle seam from the crotch seams to the waist seam, in products without a belt - to the top edge Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end; the length of the strap with a buckle is up to the edge where the strap is attached to the buckle Along the stitching seam and in risers from one end to the other Along the crotch from the middle seam to the bottom In long johns and shorts, measure on the right side At the ends from the belt stitching seam to the top edge or according to the technical documentation for the product Along the middle of the placket from the waistband seam to the end of the toe or bottom edge of the placket Along the belt loop in the middle from one edge to the other At the ends above and below | |||
GOST 4103-82
Group M39
INTERSTATE STANDARD
SEWING PRODUCTS
Quality Control Methods
Ready-made sewing goods.
Methods of quality control
OKP 85 0000
Date of introduction 1983-07-01
ENTERED INTO EFFECT by resolution of the USSR State Committee on Standards dated June 25, 1982 N 2522
The validity period was lifted according to Protocol No. 2-92 of the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (IUS 2-93)
INSTEAD GOST 4103-63
EDITION (January 2001) with Amendment No. 1, approved in March 1986 (IUS 6-86)
1. This standard applies to all types of garments and establishes methods for quality control of finished products.
2. The quality of products is controlled on a table with a horizontal surface. In addition, the quality of clothing with sides and fastening to the bottom - coats, short coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets and other similar products (except for work and special clothing) is controlled on mannequins or fashion models; the quality of the hats is on the forms.
(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
3. Dummies used to control the quality of products must comply with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation.
4. To control linear measurements of products, stitch frequency and the size of defects in the appearance of materials, use a non-folding measuring ruler, tape measure, ring gauge, triangle with a division value of 1 mm, textile magnifying glass, protractor.
5. Measurements are made with measuring instruments that have passed state tests in accordance with GOST 8.001-80*.
____________________
* PR 50.2.009-94 is in force in the Russian Federation. - Note "CODE".
6. Methods for quality control of finished products must comply with Table 1.
Table 1
Object of control | Control method | Control Tool | A sign characterizing the quality of a product |
1. Details of product and control labels | Organoleptic | Clear application of details |
|
2. Appearance | Organoleptic | Reference sample, dummy | Compliance in silhouette, proportions, design solutions of lines, nodes, parts, materials used (color, texture, compliance with the purpose of the product) with the standard sample and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
2.1. Compliance of the appearance of the product and its configuration with the standard sample | The product is compared with a reference sample and the appearance of the product is checked for compliance with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documentation for the product. | ||
2.2. Wet heat treatment | Organoleptic | Reference sample, dummy | Compliance with the standard sample; clarity of design lines (elements, parts); there should be no creases, folds, wrinkles, seams, lasses or opals |
3. Product fit | The product is put on the mannequin, fastened, the back, shelves, sides, lapels, collar and sleeves are adjusted. The fit of outerwear without sides, light clothing, lingerie and corsetry is checked simultaneously with the quality check of the entire product When checking the collar-neck connection, measure the distance from the middle seam of the lower collar to the corner of the shoulder seam and neck and from the shoulder seam to the lapel notch. | Standard sample, mannequin, ruler, tape measure | Compliance with the standard sample. the shelves should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the model, the sides should not be deformed; the corners of the collar and lapels should not bend, the collar should not be skewed, the neck should not be stretched or over-set, the collar should fit snugly to the neck and cover the stitching seam into the neck in those products where this is provided for by the standard sample, the bend line of the lapels should not must be lower or higher than that established by the standard sample; the sleeves should not deviate forward or backward, the fit of the sleeves along the armholes should be distributed in accordance with the standard sample; the sides of the splines should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the standard sample; the upper side of the spline should fit snugly to the bottom; the top of the product, lining, gaskets must not be deformed as a result of shortening, narrowing or distortion |
4. Materials (presence of defects in the appearance of materials) | Check by external inspection from the top and lining, including closed parts of the product, guided by the requirements of the standards for grading of finished products | Standard sample for materials, ruler, tape measure, textile magnifying glass | Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
5. Execution of individual components and parts | |||
5.1. Symmetrical shape and arrangement of paired parts | Organoleptic and measuring. The symmetry of the sides is checked by folding the sides, aligning the ends of the ledges, the upper edges of the lapels and the lower corners of the sides; At the same time, check the symmetry of the location of the loops and buttons. The symmetry of the ends of the collar is checked by folding the collar in the middle, aligning the shoulder seams. The symmetry of the sleeves is checked by comparing them with each other and measuring from the shoulder seam to the first seam of the sleeve. | Standard sample, dummy, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor | Symmetrical shape, size and arrangement of paired parts and parts of the product: lapels, sides, yokes, pockets, collar ends, sleeves, sleeve cuffs and trouser hems, folds, reliefs, gathers, flounces, ruffles, trims, embroideries, etc. in accordance with the reference sample |
5.2. Location of parts | Measuring. The position of parts located at an angle to the edge of the main part is checked using a triangle or a protractor. The location of folds and reliefs is checked by measuring the distance between the folds and reliefs | Triangle, protractor | Compliance with the standard model and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation. In hats, the middle of the visor should coincide with the middle of the band, wall, head, front |
5.3. Edges of parts | Organoleptic and measuring. The shape and evenness of the edges of the parts are checked by external inspection. The evenness of the straight edges of the parts is checked by placing the edge of the ruler on the edge of the part and measuring the deviations in individual areas from the straight line | Standard sample, ruler, tape measure | Correspondence of design lines to the standard sample; there should be no curvature or disruption of the edge configuration of the part |
5.4. Processing of finishing edging, edging of facing parts of pocket frames | Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection and measuring the width in separate areas | Ruler, tape measure | Width uniformity; there should be no excessive fit or stretching; edge location in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation |
5.5. The direction of the pattern in the parts of the product, the coincidence of the pattern when connecting parts in places specified in the technical documentation, the symmetry of the pattern in paired parts | Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection and measurement along the edge of the part | Standard sample, triangle, protractor, ruler, tape measure | Accuracy of pattern matching when connecting parts, symmetry of arrangement in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation and a reference sample |
5.6. Stitches, lines and seams | Organoleptic and measuring. The evenness of the stitches and seams is checked by external inspection. In case of pronounced curvature, which affects the appearance and strength of the product, measure the length of the section of the seam or stitch on which the curvature is allowed, and determine the amount of curvature. The stitch frequency is checked by counting the number of stitches per 5 cm of line, buttonholes - per 1 cm of line The tension of the threads in the lines is checked by external inspection. | Tape measure, ruler, textile magnifying glass | There should be no gaps, tension or slackness of the material and threads in the stitches, curvature of the stitches and seams; the location of the stitches from the edges of the parts or seams, the presence of bartacks and securing the ends of the stitches, the frequency of stitches and the width of the seams, the color and number of thread folds - in accordance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
5.7. Internal fastening of parts | Organoleptic. Check by touch, slightly pulling the bonded layers of material | Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions |
|
5.8. Adhesive connection of parts | Organoleptic. Check by touch, slightly moving the bonded layers | Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions; there should be no glue on the front or back side of the product, peeling or warping |
|
5.9. Processing fasteners, bartacks, fastening accessories | Organoleptic and measuring. Check by fastening or aligning the sides, trims, bow of trousers, edges of the zipper, etc. The correct direction of straight loops is checked by applying a right triangle, aligning one leg with the edge of the part or pattern of the material, the other with the slot of the loop, and oblique loops with a protractor. Sewing buttonholes and bartacks, fastening of accessories is checked by external inspection and counting the number of stitches | Ruler, tape measure, right triangle, textile magnifying glass, protractor | There should be no slack or tension in the material; size, shape, direction, coincidence of the transverse pattern along the edge of the fastener - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation |
5.10. Quilting the parts | Organoleptic and measuring | Standard sample, ruler, tape measure | Compliance with the standard sample; there should be no distortions of parts; thickness (weight) and uniformity of the filler flooring - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation |
5.11. Availability of internal gaskets | Organoleptic. Check by touch, moving the layers in relation to each other | Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.12. Tolerances | Organoleptic and measuring. The location, number and dimensions of extensions are checked according to regulatory and technical documentation | Ruler, tape measure | |
5.13. Slices | Organoleptic and measuring. Overcasting, edging, fusing, cutting out sections is checked by external inspection, measuring sections | Standard sample, ruler, tape measure | Compliance with the standard sample, the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation and technological regimes. The cuts should be elastic and should not crumble. |
7. The appearance and fit of the product is determined in ironed, marketable products, on mannequins of a typical build; figures or forms of appropriate sizes.
8. Methods for measuring main and auxiliary linear measurements of products must correspond to those indicated in Table 2-9 and Figure 1-9.
6-8. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
table 2
Shoulder products
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
1 | Back length | Along the middle of the back from the collar seam to the bottom. For a product without a collar, measure from the edge of the middle of the back neck to the bottom |
2 | Back width | Between the seams of the sleeves, the edges of the armholes (in products without sleeves) in the narrowest place at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
3 | Product width at armhole depth | In men's and children's shirts with a fastener buttoned down to the bottom |
4 | The length of the sleeve | Along the middle of the top from the highest point of the cuff to the bottom or bottom edge of the cuff. In a raglan or one-piece sleeve - along the middle of the upper part or along the middle seam from the collar stitching seam to the bottom |
5 | Collar length | Along the seam, sew the collar into the neck from one end to the other end or in a straight line. Shirt collar - along the stand between the outer ends of the loops or from the outer end of the loop to the center of the button. In shirts made to government order, from the center of the button to 1/3 of the buttonhole (from its outer edge) |
6 | Waist width | Along the waistline from the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. In a product that is not cut off along the waist line, measurements are taken at the level specified in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
7 | Product width at hip level | Along the hip line from the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. The measurement is carried out at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
8 | Product width at bottom | From the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back in a straight line |
9 | Length of the back to the waist in products cut at the waist line | Along the middle of the back from the collar sewing seam or the edge of the middle back neckline (in a product without a collar) to the sewing seam along the waist line |
10 | Back yoke length | Along the middle of the back from the seam of the collar or the edge of the middle of the back neck (in a product without a collar) to the bottom of the yoke |
11 | Front length | Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom, parallel to the edge of the bead or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation on |
12 | Length of the front to the waist in products cut at the waist line | Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the level of the waist line, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
13 | Front yoke length | Along the front or front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom of the yoke, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the line of the middle front or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
14 | Front or chest width | From the sleeve seam to the edge of the bead at the narrowest point. In a product without sides - between the seams of the sleeves in the narrowest place. In a raglan cut product and with one-piece sleeves, measurements are taken at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
15 | Length of shoulder or lapel at top | Along the edge of the ledge of the side or lapel from the end of the ledge to the corner of the side or lapel |
16 | Strap length | Along the middle of the strap between its ends or according to the technical documentation for the product |
17 | Length of strap made of parts | Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end of each part or from one end to the other or according to the technical documentation for the product |
18 | Belt length | Along the middle of the belt from the edge of the belt to the buckle to the end or according to the technical documentation for the product. Belt without buckle - between the ends of the belt |
19 | Width of strap or belt | At the ends of the strap, belt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
20 | Sleeve width at top | At the top along the bottom of the sleeve in a straight line at the level of the largest part opening (in one-piece sleeves - at the level of the undercut corners) from the roll fold to the elbow bend or from the front fold to the back |
21 | Sleeve width at elbow level | Folded in half between the folds from the highest point of the sleeve at the distance specified in the technical documentation for the product |
22 | Sleeve width at bottom | Double folded |
23 | Cuff width | At the ends or in the middle of the cuff from the top edge to the bottom |
24 | Cuff length | Along the cuff from one end to the other or folded in half |
25 | Elbow pad length | Along the middle of the elbow pad or along the seam from the top edge to the bottom |
26 | Elbow pad width | Along the top and bottom edges in the widest part |
27 | Spline length | There are slots along the outer edge from the bartack to the bottom |
28 | Collar width | At the ends and in the middle of the lower collar from the stitching seam (or stitching) or from the lower edge of the stand to the edge of the flyaway |
29 | Rack width | At the ends and in the middle of the stand from the stitching seam to the edge of the stand |
30 | Departure width | At the ends and in the middle of the take-off from the stitching seam to the edge of the take-off |
31 | Plank length | Along the middle of the placket from the seam of the collar or cuff, waistband to the end of the toe or the bottom edge of the placket |
32 | Plank width | Above - between the edges, below - between the upper corners of the toe or edges |
33 | From the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap and in the place provided for in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
|
34 | Location of leaves, welt and patch pockets, valves | From the edge of the side or the middle of the front to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap |
35 | Along the opening of the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket, or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
36 | Width of leaflet, flap, pocket frame | At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges. In shaped valves, additional measurements are taken in wide areas |
37 (Fig. 3) | Hem width | At the top at the level of the stitching of the end of the collar, at the bottom from the edge of the side to the seam of the stitching of the lining or to the inner edge of the lining in products without lining. In a product with lapels with an obtuse angle - from the corner of the lapel to the seam of the lining. In a product with rounded sides - at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
Table 3
Belt items: trousers, long johns, briefs
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
1 | Side seam length | Along side seam from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the bottom In trousers worn tucked into boots - in a straight line from the seam of the belt to the bottom |
2 | Half belt length or waist width | Sew along the seam of the waistband from the edge of the front half to the middle seam. In a product without a belt - along the upper edge, folded in half and straightened from one edge to the other |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
3 | Width at center seam | From back half fold to front half fold or from side fold to step fold |
4 | Width at knee level | From the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half or from the side fold to the step fold (measured at the level specified in the technical specifications for the product) |
5 | Width at bottom | Along the edge of the hem from the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half, or from the side fold to the instep fold, or along the bottom edge of a double folded cuff |
6 | Cuff width | Along the edges of the fold and along the seams from the top edge to the bottom |
7 | Middle seam length | Along the middle seam from the crotch seams to the waist seam, in products without a belt - to the top edge |
8 | Length of strap, straps | Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end; the length of the strap with a buckle is up to the edge where the strap is attached to the buckle |
9 | Width of strap, straps | Along the stitching seam and at the free ends from one edge to the other |
10 | Crotch length | Along the crotch from the middle seam to the bottom In long johns and shorts, measure on the right side |
11 | The width of the belt | At the ends from the belt stitching seam to the top edge or according to the technical documentation for the product |
12 | Plank length | Along the middle of the placket from the waistband seam to the end of the toe or bottom edge of the placket |
13 | Belt Loop Length | Along the belt loop in the middle from one edge to the other |
14 | Width of belt loops, straps | At the ends above and below |
15 | Spline length | There are slots along the edge from the bartack to the edge of the bottom of the product or the inner edge of the stitching part. In the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the tack |
16 | Length of knee pad or other reinforcement pads | Along the middle from top to bottom |
17 | Length of the sides of the knee pad or other reinforcing pads | |
18 | Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the top | Between the top corners |
19 | Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the bottom | Between the bottom corners |
20 | Location of the knee pad or other reinforcing parts | From the edge of the main part to the corner or edge of the knee pad or other reinforcement parts |
21 | Lei width at top | From the edge of the lei on the back half to the middle seam (when connecting the middle sections with a hemming seam or a lock seam, the measurement is taken along the right half) or according to the technical documentation for the product |
22 | At the level of the middle seam from the edge of the lei on the back half to the edge of the lei on the front half or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
23 | Lei width at knee level | From the top corner, edge of the lei on the front half to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half |
24 | Width of the lei at the bottom | From the bottom corner of the edge, on the front half, to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half, or according to the technical documentation for the product |
25 | Length of the sides of the lei | Along the sides from the top corner to the bottom |
26 | Length of the lei along the crotch seam | Along the crotch from the top edge (at the middle seam) to the bottom of the lei |
27 | Location of the lei along the middle seam | Along the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the top edge of the lei |
35 | Length of valve, leaflet, pocket entrance | Along the entrance to the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
36 | Flap width, leaves, pocket frames | At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges; in figured valves additionally measured in wide areas |
Table 4
Waist products: skirts
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
1 | Skirt length | Along the middle of the front and back panels from the top edge or waistband seam to the bottom |
2 | Skirt waist width | Along the upper edge of the belt or skirt (buttoned, with an elastic band threaded through) |
3 | Skirt width at hip level | From the left to the right side fold or from the middle of the front panel to the middle of the back (measured at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product) |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
4 | Skirt bottom width | From the edge of the left to the edge of the right side fold in a straight line or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back panel of the skirt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
5 | The width of the belt | Between the top and bottom edges of the belt |
6 | Length of the cut (clasp) of the skirt | Along the edge of the slit from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the skirt to the bartack |
Table 5
Hats
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Main Dimension |
||
1 | Inner circumference | The measurement is made with a ring gauge or a ruler folded in half. The compressed ring is inserted inside the headdress or band. The ring is pulled apart until it fits completely so that the product is held on it |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
2 | Width of forehead and half-forehead | Between the upper and lower edges of the forehead or half-forehead |
3 | Band height | From the bottom edge to the band stitching seam |
4 | Wall height | From the stitching seam of the band to the stitching seam of the bottom along the stitching seam or in the middle (in hats that have edgings along the top of the band and along the bottom, the width of the edging is not included in the measurement) |
5 | Visor length | Along the lower edge of the band or head from one edge of the visor to the other |
6 | Visor width | In the middle of the visor from the lower edge of the band or head to the edge of the visor |
7 | Single strap length | Along the strap between the centers of the buttons or sewing points |
8 | Double strap half length | Along the strap from the inner edge of the loop to the end of the strap |
9 | Band width | At the ends and in the middle from one edge to the other |
10 | Cap front height | Above the middle of the visor from the seam of the visor to the seam of the bottom |
11 | Wedge length | In the middle of the wedge from the bottom to the corner of the wedge at the top or to the center of the button |
12 | Wedge width | Along the bottom edge between the wedge seams |
13 | Beret height | From the bottom edge to the bottom stitching seam |
14 | Bottom length and width | Measure along two mutually perpendicular lines (diameters), while the line in front must coincide with the seam of the walls (in caps that have a piping along the bottom, the width of the piping is not included in the measurement) |
15 | Length of the longitudinal arc of the head | From the front cutout, the seam connecting the head with the brim, visor and other parts through the middle of the head to the other edge |
16 | Margin width | Front, back and sides from the edge of the brim to the stitching seam to the head |
17 | Side length | Along the seam of attaching the side to the head from one end to the other |
18 | Side height | In the middle from the seam of stitching the side to the head to the edge |
19 | Earphone length | In the middle of the earphone from the stitching seam to the head to the edge |
20 | Earphone width | At the level of the top edge of the side from one edge to the other |
21 | Hat string length | From the place of stitching to the end of the tie in a straightened form |
22 | Cap wall height | Front, back and sides from the bottom edge to the seam of the wall to the bottom |
23 | Cap bottom width | In the middle of the bottom between the stitching seams to the sides of the head |
24 | The height of the sides of the cap | Front, back and sides from the bottom to the top edge of the side |
25 | Hood face length | Along the edge of the front opening of the double-folded hood from the bottom corner to the fold |
Table 6
Bed linen, blankets, bedspreads
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
Length of the product | In the middle of the product and along the sides from one edge to the other When measuring, large-sized products are placed along the table with the sides aligned, folded in half, with the sides facing the person measuring |
|
Product width | In the middle and along the edges of the product |
|
Auxiliary measurement |
||
Quilt bolster width | On four sides; along the edges and in the middle of each side from stitch to edge |
|
Table 7
Corsetry
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
7 | Width under cups | Folded in half in a straight line from one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other |
2 | Distance from the middle of the front to the side line of the cup insertion | In the horizontal direction along the seam connecting the parts of the cup through the highest point of the cup between the middle of the front and the side seam of the cup being set in |
3 | Vertical arc length of the bottom of the cup | In the vertical direction from the stitching seam to the highest point of the cup |
4 | Waist Width | Folded in half in a straight line from the edge of one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
5 | Width at hip line | |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
6 | Front center length | (in waist-pantaloons, belt-pants, grace-pants from the top edge to the gusset stitching seam) |
7 | Product length at the back in the middle | |
8 | Strap length | The length of the stitched strap is measured at the center of the strap between the stitched seams. The length of the fastened strap - from the end of the strap to the seam attached to the product |
9 | Length of front and rear stocking holders | In the middle of the stocking holder from the stitching seam to the product to the buckle |
10 | Distance between stocking holders | In a straight line from the middle of one stocking holder to the middle of the other |
Table 8
Mittens, gloves, mittens
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
38 | Length of the product | In a straight line from top to bottom |
39 | Product width | From one bend to another at the level of the bend, the thumb stick |
39a | Tip length | From the bend line to the top edge of the stick |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
40 | Handheld length | In a straight line from top to bottom |
41 | Leg length | In a straight line from the edge to the stitching seam or according to the technical documentation for the product |
42 | Gaiter width | Folded in half in a straight line from fold to fold |
Table 9
Aprons
Measurement number on drawing | Name of measurement location | Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
43 | Length of the product | In a straight line along the product from top to bottom |
44 | Product width | In a straight line at waist level from edge to edge |
Strap length | Straight in the middle or along the inner, outer edge in accordance with the technical documentation |
|
Notes to Table 2-9:
1. It is allowed to use a soft measuring tape. If disagreements arise regarding the control results, the soft tape is checked using the measuring instruments specified in clause 4.
2. Product measurements are made without tension, folds and wrinkles with an error of no more than ±1 mm.
3. Depending on the features of the model, the measurement locations and their number may be changed.
The text of the document is verified according to:
official publication
M.: IPK Standards Publishing House, 2001
INTERSTATE STANDARD
Official publication
Standardinform
INTERSTATE STANDARD
SEWING PRODUCTS Quality control methods
Ready-made sewing goods. Methods of quality control
GOST 4103-63
MKS 61.020 OKP 85 0000
1. This standard applies to all types of garments and establishes methods for quality control of finished products.
2. The quality of products is controlled on a table with a horizontal surface. In addition, the quality of clothing with sides and fastening to the bottom - coats, short coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets and other similar products (except for work and special clothing) is controlled on mannequins or fashion models; the quality of the hats is on the forms.
(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
3. Dummies used to control the quality of products must comply with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation.
4. To control linear measurements of products, stitch frequency and the size of defects in the appearance of materials, use a non-folding measuring ruler, tape measure, ring gauge, triangle with a division value of 1 mm, textile magnifying glass, protractor.
5. Measurements are made with measuring instruments that have passed state tests in accordance with GOST 8.001-80*.
6. Methods for quality control of finished products must comply with table. 1.
7. The appearance and fit of the product is determined in ironed, marketable products, on mannequins of a typical build; figures or forms of appropriate sizes.
8. Methods for measuring main and auxiliary linear measurements of products must correspond to those indicated in table. 2-9 and to hell. 1-9.
6-8. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
* PR 50.2.009-94 applies on the territory of the Russian Federation.
Edition (March 2007) with Change No. 1, approved in March 1986 (IUS 6-86).
© Standards Publishing House, 1982 © Standartinform, 2007
Table 1
1. Details of organoleptic
Varny and kontki roll labels
Clear application of details
2. Appearance
Organol eptic
Reference sample, mannequin
2.1. Compliance of the appearance of the product and its configuration with the standard sample
The product is compared with a reference sample and the appearance of the product is checked for compliance with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documentation for the product.
Compliance in silhouette, proportions, design solutions of lines, nodes, parts, materials used (color, texture, compliance with the purpose of the product) with the standard sample and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
2.2. Wet heat treatment
3. Product fit
Organoleptic
Reference sample, mannequin
Compliance with the standard sample; clarity of design lines (elements, parts); there should be no creases, folds, wrinkles, seams, lasses or opals
Sample - standard, mannequin, ruler, tape measure
Compliance with the standard sample. There should be no creases, wrinkles or distortions;
The product is put on the mannequin, fastened, the back, shelves, sides, lapels, collar and sleeves are adjusted.
The fit of outerwear without sides, light clothing, lingerie and corsetry is checked simultaneously with the quality check of the entire product
When checking the collar-neck connection, measure the distance from the middle seam of the lower collar to the corner of the shoulder seam and neck and from the shoulder seam to the lapel notch.
the shelves should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the model, the sides should not be deformed;
the corners of the collar and lapels should not bend, the collar should not be skewed, the neck should not be stretched or over-set, the collar should fit snugly to the neck and cover the stitching seam into the neck in those products where this is provided for by the standard sample, the bend line of the lapels should not must be lower or higher than that established by the standard sample;
the sleeves should not deviate forward or backward, the fit of the sleeves along the armholes should be distributed in accordance with the standard sample;
the sides of the splines should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the standard sample; the upper side of the spline should fit snugly to the bottom;
the top of the product, lining, gaskets must not be deformed as a result of shortening, narrowing or distortion
4. Materials (presence of defects in the appearance of materials)
Organoleptic and measuring.
Check by external inspection from the top and lining, including closed parts of the product, guided by the requirements of the standards for grading of finished products
Standard sample for materials, ruler, tape measure, textile magnifying glass
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
Object of control
5. Execution of individual components and parts
5.1. Symmetrical shape and arrangement of paired parts
5.2. Location of parts
5.3. Edges of parts
Organoleptic and measuring.
Combine paired parts and measure them.
The symmetry of the sides is checked by folding the sides, aligning the ends of the ledges, the upper edges of the lapels and the lower corners of the sides; At the same time, check the symmetry of the location of the loops and buttons.
The symmetry of the ends of the collar is checked by folding the collar in the middle, aligning the shoulder seams.
The symmetry of the sleeves is checked by comparing them with each other and measuring from the shoulder seam to the first seam of the sleeve.
Measuring.
Measure the distance of the parts from the seams or edges of the product.
The position of parts located at an angle to the edge of the main part is checked using a triangle or a protractor.
The location of folds and reliefs is checked by measuring the distance between the folds and reliefs
Organoleptic and measuring.
The shape and evenness of the edges of the parts are checked by external inspection.
The evenness of the straight edges of the parts is checked by placing the edge of the ruler on the edge of the part and measuring the deviations in individual areas from the straight line
Sample - standard, dummy, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure
Symmetrical shape, size and arrangement of paired parts and parts of the product: lapels, sides, yokes,
pockets, collar ends, sleeves, sleeve cuffs and trouser lows, folds, reliefs, gathers, flounces, ruffles, trims, embroideries, etc. in accordance with the standard sample
Compliance with the standard model and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation. In hats, the middle of the visor should coincide with the middle of the band, wall, head, front
Correspondence of design lines to the standard sample; there should be no curvature or disruption of the edge configuration of the part
5.4. Processing of finishing edging, edging of facing parts of pocket frames
Organoleptic and measuring.
Check by external inspection and measuring the width in separate areas
Ruler, tape measure
Width uniformity; there should be no excessive fit or stretching; edge location in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation
5.5. The direction of the pattern in the parts of the product, the coincidence of the pattern when connecting parts in places specified in the technical documentation, the symmetry of the pattern in paired parts
Organoleptic and measuring.
Check by external inspection and measurement along the edge of the part
Sample - standard, triangle, protractor, ruler, tape measure
Accuracy of pattern matching when connecting parts, symmetry of arrangement in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation and a reference sample
5.6. Stitches, lines and seams
Organoleptic - Tape measure, ruler, cue and measuring instrument - textile magnifying glass.
The evenness of the stitches and seams is checked by external inspection.
In case of pronounced curvature, which affects the appearance and strength of the product, measure the length of the section of the seam or stitch on which the curvature is allowed, and determine the amount of curvature.
The stitch frequency is checked by counting the number of stitches per 5 cm of line, buttonholes - per 1 cm of line
The tension of the threads in the lines is checked by external inspection.
There should be no gaps, tension or slackness of the material and threads in the stitches, curvature of the stitches and seams; the location of the stitches from the edges of the parts or seams, the presence of bartacks and securing the ends of the stitches, the frequency of stitches and the width of the seams, the color and number of thread folds - in accordance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
5.7. Internal fastening of parts
Organoleptic
Check by touch, slightly pulling the bonded layers of material
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions
5.8. Adhesive connection of parts
Organoleptic
Check by touch, slightly moving the bonded layers
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions; there should be no glue on the front or back side of the product, peeling or warping
5.9. Processing fasteners, bartacks, fastening accessories
Organoleptic and measuring.
Check by fastening or aligning the sides, trims, bow of trousers, edges of the zipper, etc.
The correct direction of straight loops is checked by applying a right triangle, aligning one leg with the edge of the part or pattern of the material, the other with the slot of the loop, and oblique loops with a protractor.
Sewing buttonholes and bartacks, fastening of accessories is checked by external inspection and counting the number of stitches
Ruler, tape measure, right triangle, textile magnifying glass, protractor
There should be no slack or tension in the material; size, shape, direction, coincidence of the transverse pattern along the edge of the fastener - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation
5.10. Quilting the parts
Organoleptic - Standard sample, cue and measuring ruler, tape measure
5.11. Availability of internal gaskets
Organoleptic
Check by touch, moving the layers in relation to each other
Compliance with the standard sample; there should be no distortions of parts; thickness (weight) and uniformity of the filler flooring - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation
5.12. Tolerances
Organoleptic and measuring.
The location, number and dimensions of extensions are checked according to regulatory and technical documentation
Ruler, tape measure
5.13. Slices
Organoleptic - Standard sample, cue and measuring ruler, tape measure.
Overcasting, edging, fusing, cutting out sections is checked by external inspection, measuring sections
Compliance with the standard sample, the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation and technological regimes. The cuts should be elastic and should not crumble.
table 2
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
(Fig. 1, 2)
Back length
Back width
ovary measurements
Along the middle of the back from the collar seam to the bottom.
For a product without a collar, measure from the edge of the middle of the back neck to the bottom
Between the seams of the sleeves, the edges of the armholes (in products without sleeves) in the narrowest place at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product
Product width, armhole depth
The length of the sleeve
at the level
Collar length
Waist width
Hip Line Width
at the level
In men's and children's shirts with a fastener buttoned down to the bottom
Along the middle of the top from the highest point of the cuff to the bottom or bottom edge of the cuff.
In a raglan or one-piece sleeve - along the middle of the upper part or along the middle seam from the collar stitching seam to the bottom
Along the seam, sew the collar into the neck from one end to the other end or in a straight line.
Shirt collar - along the stand between the outer ends of the loops or from the outer end of the loop to the center of the button.
In shirts made to government order, from the center of the button to 1/3 of the buttonhole (from its outer edge)
Along the waistline from the edge of the side to the middle of the back.
In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back.
In a product that is not cut off along the waist line, measurements are taken at the level specified in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product
Along the hip line from the edge of the side to the middle of the back.
In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back.
The measurement is carried out at the level of the technical documentation for the product
specified in
Auxiliary measurements
Product width at bottom
From the edge of the side to the middle of the back.
In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back in a straight line
Length of the back to the waist in products cut at the waist line
Along the middle of the back from the collar sewing seam or the edge of the middle back neckline (in a product without a collar) to the sewing seam along the waist line
Back yoke length
Along the middle of the back from the seam of the collar or the edge of the middle of the back neck (in a product without a collar) to the bottom of the yoke
Continuation of the table. 2
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Front length |
Along the shelf from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom, parallel to the edge of the bead or the half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product. |
|
Length of the front to the waist in products cut at the waist line |
Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the level of the waist line, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Front yoke length |
Along the front or front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom of the yoke, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the line of the middle front or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Front or chest width |
From the sleeve seam to the edge of the bead at the narrowest point. |
|
In a product without sides - between the seams of the sleeves in the narrowest place. |
||
|
In a raglan cut product and with one-piece sleeves, measurements are taken at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
||
|
Length of shoulder or lapel at top |
Along the edge of the ledge of the side or lapel from the end of the ledge to the corner of the side or lapel |
|
|
Strap length |
Along the middle of the strap between its ends or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Length of strap made of parts |
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end of each part or from one end to the other or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Belt length |
Along the middle of the belt from the edge of the belt to the buckle to the end or according to the technical documentation for the product. |
|
|
Belt without buckle - between the ends of the belt |
||
|
Width of strap or belt |
At the ends of the strap, belt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
(Fig. 2, 3) |
Sleeve width at top |
At the top along the bottom of the sleeve in a straight line at the level of the largest part opening (in one-piece sleeves - at the level of the undercut corners) from the roll fold to the elbow bend or from the front fold to the back |
|
Sleeve width at elbow level |
Folded in half between the folds from the highest point of the sleeve at the distance specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Sleeve width at bottom |
Double folded |
|
|
Cuff width |
At the ends or in the middle of the cuff from the top edge to the bottom |
|
|
Cuff length |
Along the cuff from one end to the other or folded in half |
|
|
Elbow pad length |
Along the middle of the elbow pad or along the seam from the top edge to the bottom |
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
|
Elbow pad width |
Along the top and bottom edges in the widest part |
||
|
Spline length |
There are slots along the outer edge from the bartack to the bottom |
||
|
Collar width |
At the ends and in the middle of the lower collar from the stitching seam (or stitching) or from the lower edge of the stand to the edge of the flyaway |
||
|
Rack width |
At the ends and in the middle of the stand from the stitching seam to the edge of the stand |
||
|
Departure width |
At the ends and in the middle of the take-off from the stitching seam to the edge of the take-off |
||
|
Plank length |
Along the middle of the placket from the seam of the collar or cuff, waistband to the end of the toe or the bottom edge of the placket |
||
|
Plank width |
Above - between the edges, below - between the upper corners of the toe or edges |
||
|
From the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap and in the place provided for in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
|||
|
Location of leaves, welt and patch pockets, valves |
From the edge of the side or the middle of the front to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap |
||
|
Along the opening of the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket, or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|||
|
Width of leaflet, flap, pocket frame |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges. In shaped valves, additional measurements are taken in wide areas |
||
|
Hem width |
At the top at the level of the stitching of the end of the collar, at the bottom from the edge of the side to the seam of the stitching of the lining or to the inner edge of the lining in products without lining. |
||
|
In a product with lapels with an obtuse angle - from the corner of the lapel to the seam of the lining. |
|||
|
In a product with rounded sides - at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|||
Table 3
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
Basic measurements
(Fig. 5, 6)
(Fig. 5, 6)
Side seam length
Along the side seam from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the bottom
In trousers worn tucked into boots - in a straight line from the seam of the belt to the bottom
Half belt length or waist width
Along the seam, sew the half waistband to the middle seam.
front
In a product without a belt - along the upper edge, folded in half and straightened from one edge to the other
Auxiliary measurements
(Fig. 5, 6)
(Fig. 5, 6)
(Fig. 4, 5)
(Fig. 5, 6) 11
Width at center seam
From back half fold to front half fold or from side fold to step fold
Width at knee level
From the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half or from the side fold to the step fold (measured at the level specified in the technical specifications for the product)
Width at bottom
Along the edge of the hem from the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half, or from the side fold to the instep fold, or along the bottom edge of a double folded cuff
Cuff width
Along the edges of the fold and along the seams from the top edge to the bottom
Middle seam length
Length of strap, straps
Along the middle seam from the crotch seams to the waist seam, in products without a belt - to the top edge
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end; the length of the strap with a buckle is up to the edge where the strap is attached to the buckle
Width of strap, straps
Along the stitching seam and at the free ends from one edge to the other
Crotch length
Along the crotch from the middle seam to the bottom
In long johns and shorts, measure on the right side
The width of the belt
At the ends from the belt stitching seam to the top edge or according to the technical documentation for the product
Plank length
Along the middle of the placket from the waistband seam to the end of the toe or bottom edge of the placket
Belt Loop Length
Along the belt loop in the middle from one edge to the other
Width of belt loops, straps
At the ends above and below
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Spline length |
There are slots along the edge from the bartack to the edge of the bottom of the product or the inner edge of the stitching part. |
|
|
In the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the tack |
||
|
Length of knee pad or other reinforcement pads |
Along the middle from top to bottom |
|
|
Length of the sides of the knee pad or other reinforcing pads | ||
|
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the top |
Between the top corners |
|
|
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the bottom |
Between the bottom corners |
|
|
Location of the knee pad or other reinforcing parts |
From the edge of the main part to the corner or edge of the knee pad or other reinforcement parts |
|
|
Lei width at top |
From the edge of the lei on the back half to the middle seam (when connecting the middle sections with a hemming seam or a lock seam, the measurement is taken along the right half) or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
At the level of the middle seam from the edge of the lei on the back half to the edge of the lei on the front half or according to the technical documentation for the product |
||
|
Lei width at knee level |
From the top corner, edge of the lei on the front half to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half |
|
|
Width of the lei at the bottom |
From the bottom corner of the edge, on the front half, to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half, or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Length of the sides of the lei |
Along the sides from the top corner to the bottom |
|
|
Length of the lei along the crotch seam |
Along the crotch from the top edge (at the middle seam) to the bottom of the lei |
|
|
Location of the lei along the middle seam |
Along the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the top edge of the lei |
|
|
Length of valve, leaflet, pocket entrance |
Along the entrance to the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
|
Flap width, leaves, pocket frames |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges; in figured valves additionally measured in wide areas |
Table 4
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
e measurements |
||
|
Skirt length |
Along the middle of the front and back panels from the top edge or waistband seam to the bottom |
|
|
Skirt waist width |
Along the upper edge of the belt or skirt (buttoned, with an elastic band threaded through) |
|
|
Skirt width at hip level |
From the left to the right side fold or from the middle of the front panel to the middle of the back (measured at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product) |
|
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
Skirt bottom width |
From the edge of the left to the edge of the right side fold in a straight line or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back panel of the skirt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
The width of the belt |
Between the top and bottom edges of the belt |
|
|
Length of the cut (clasp) of the skirt |
Along the edge of the slit from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the skirt to the bartack |
|
|
Table 5 Hats |
||
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
BASICALLY |
e measurement |
|
|
Inner circumference |
The measurement is made with a ring gauge or a ruler folded in half. The compressed ring is inserted inside the headdress or band. The ring is pulled apart until it fits completely so that the product is held on it |
|
|
Auxiliary |
nal measurements |
|
|
Width of forehead and half-forehead |
Between the upper and lower edges of the forehead or half-forehead |
|
|
Band height |
From the bottom edge to the band stitching seam |
|
|
Wall height |
From the stitching seam of the band to the stitching seam of the bottom along the stitching seam or in the middle (in hats that have edgings along the top of the band and along the bottom, the width of the edging is not included in the measurement) |
|
|
Visor length |
Along the lower edge of the cap or head from one edge of the visor to the other |
|
|
Visor width |
In the middle of the visor from the lower edge of the band or head to the edge of the visor |
|
|
Single strap length |
Along the strap between the centers of the buttons or sewing points |
|
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Double strap half length |
Along the strap from the inner edge of the loop to the end of the strap |
|
|
Band width |
At the ends and in the middle from one edge to the other |
|
|
Cap front height |
Above the middle of the visor from the seam of the visor to the seam of the bottom |
|
|
Wedge length |
In the middle of the wedge from the bottom to the corner of the wedge at the top or to the center of the button |
|
|
Wedge width |
Along the bottom edge between the wedge seams |
|
|
Beret height |
From the bottom edge to the bottom stitching seam |
|
|
Bottom length and width |
Measure along two mutually perpendicular lines (diameters), while the line in front must coincide with the seam of the walls (in caps that have a piping along the bottom, the width of the piping is not included in the measurement) |
|
|
Length of the longitudinal arc of the head |
From the front cutout, the seam connecting the head with the brim, visor and other parts through the middle of the head to the other edge |
|
|
Margin width |
Front, back and sides from the edge of the brim to the stitching seam to the head |
|
|
Side length |
Along the seam of attaching the side to the head from one end to the other |
|
|
Side height |
In the middle from the seam of stitching the side to the head to the edge |
|
|
Earphone length |
In the middle of the earphone from the stitching seam to the head to the edge |
|
|
Earphone width |
At the level of the top edge of the side from one edge to the other |
|
|
Hat string length |
From the place of stitching to the end of the tie in a straightened form |
|
|
Cap wall height |
Front, back and sides from the bottom edge to the seam of the wall to the bottom |
|
|
Cap bottom width |
In the middle of the bottom between the stitching seams to the sides of the head |
|
|
The height of the sides of the cap |
Front, back and sides from the bottom to the top edge of the side |
|
|
Hood face length |
Along the edge of the front opening of the double-folded hood from the bottom corner to the fold |
Bed linen, blankets, bedspreads
Table 6
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basics |
e measurements |
|
|
Length of the product |
In the middle of the product and along the sides from one edge to the other |
|
|
When measuring, large-sized products are placed along the table with the sides aligned, folded in half, with the sides facing the person measuring |
||
|
Product width |
In the middle and along the edges of the product |
|
|
Auxiliary |
nal dimension |
|
|
Quilt bolster width |
On four sides; along the edges and in the middle of each side from stitch to edge |
|
|
Table 7 Corsetry |
||
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
e measurements |
||
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Width under cups |
Folded in half in a straight line from one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Distance from the middle of the front to the side line of the cup insertion |
In the horizontal direction along the seam connecting the parts of the cup through the highest point of the cup between the middle of the front and the side seam of the cup being set in |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Vertical arc length of the bottom of the cup |
In the vertical direction from the stitching seam to the highest point of the cup |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Waist Width |
Folded in half in a straight line from the edge of one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Width at hip line | |
|
Auxiliary |
nal measurements |
|
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Front center length |
(in waist-pantaloons, belt-pants, grace-pants from the top edge to the gusset stitching seam) |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Product length at the back in the middle | |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Strap length |
The length of the stitched strap is measured at the center of the strap between the stitched seams. |
|
The length of the fastened strap - from the end of the strap to the seam attached to the product |
||
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Length of front and rear stocking holders |
In the middle of the stocking holder from the stitching seam to the product to the buckle |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Distance between stocking holders |
In a straight line from the middle of one stocking holder to the middle of the other |
Table 8
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
Basic
Length of the product
measurements
In a straight line from top to bottom
Product width Length of stick
From one bend to another at the level of the bend, the thumb stick
From the bend line to the top edge of the stick
Auxiliary measurements
Handheld length
In a straight line from top to bottom
Length of the gaiter Width of the gaiter
In a straight line from the edge to the stitching seam or according to the technical documentation for the product
Folded in half in a straight line from fold to fold
Table 9
Measurement number on drawing
Name of measurement location
Product measurement method
Product length Product width Strap length
basic measurements
In a straight line along the product from top to bottom
In a straight line at waist level from edge to edge
Straight in the middle or along the inner, outer edge in accordance with the technical documentation
Notes to the table 2-9:
1. It is allowed to use a soft measuring tape. If disagreements arise regarding the control results, the soft tape is checked using the measuring instruments specified in i. 4.
2. Product measurements are made without tension, folds and wrinkles with an error of no more than + 1 mm.
3. Depending on the features of the model, the measurement locations and their number may be changed.
GOST 4103-82 S. 15
Crap. 3 Damn.
Editor M.I. Makashova Technical editor N.S. Grishanova Proofreader V.I. Barentseva Computer layout L.A. Circular
Signed for publication on March 26, 2007. Format 60X84 1/". Offset paper. Times typeface. Offset printing. Uel. oven l. 2.79. Academic ed. l. 2.35. Circulation 86 copies. Zach. 276. From 3857.
FSUE "STANDARTINFORM", 123995 Moscow, Granatny lane, 4.
Typed into FSUE "STANDARTINFORM" on a PC.
Printed in the branch of FSUE "STANDARTINFORM" - type. “Moscow Printer”, 105062 Moscow, Lyalin lane, 6
GOST 4103-82
Group M39
INTERSTATE STANDARD
SEWING PRODUCTS
Quality Control Methods
Ready-made sewing goods.
Methods of quality control
OKP 85 0000
Date of introduction 1983-07-01
ENTERED INTO EFFECT by resolution of the USSR State Committee on Standards dated June 25, 1982 N 2522
The validity period was lifted according to Protocol No. 2-92 of the Interstate Council for Standardization, Metrology and Certification (IUS 2-93)
INSTEAD GOST 4103-63
EDITION (January 2001) with Amendment No. 1, approved in March 1986 (IUS 6-86)
1. This standard applies to all types of garments and establishes methods for quality control of finished products.
2. The quality of products is controlled on a table with a horizontal surface. In addition, the quality of clothing with sides and fastening to the bottom - coats, short coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets and other similar products (except for work and special clothing) is controlled on mannequins or fashion models; the quality of the hats is on the forms.
(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
3. Dummies used to control the quality of products must comply with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation.
4. To control linear measurements of products, stitch frequency and the size of defects in the appearance of materials, use a non-folding measuring ruler, tape measure, ring gauge, triangle with a division value of 1 mm, textile magnifying glass, protractor.
5. Measurements are made with measuring instruments that have passed state tests in accordance with GOST 8.001-80*.
____________________
* PR 50.2.009-94 is in force in the Russian Federation. - Note.
6. Methods for quality control of finished products must comply with Table 1.
Table 1
|
Object of control |
Control method |
Control Tool |
A sign characterizing the quality of a product |
|
1. Details of product and control labels |
Organoleptic |
Clear application of details |
|
|
2. Appearance |
Organoleptic |
Reference sample, dummy |
Compliance in silhouette, proportions, design solutions of lines, nodes, parts, materials used (color, texture, compliance with the purpose of the product) with the standard sample and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
2.1. Compliance of the appearance of the product and its configuration with the standard sample |
The product is compared with a reference sample and the appearance of the product is checked for compliance with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documentation for the product. |
||
|
2.2. Wet heat treatment |
Organoleptic |
Reference sample, dummy |
Compliance with the standard sample; clarity of design lines (elements, parts); there should be no creases, folds, wrinkles, seams, lasses or opals |
|
3. Product fit |
The product is put on the mannequin, fastened, the back, shelves, sides, lapels, collar and sleeves are adjusted. The fit of outerwear without sides, light clothing, lingerie and corsetry is checked simultaneously with the quality check of the entire product When checking the collar-neck connection, measure the distance from the middle seam of the lower collar to the corner of the shoulder seam and neck and from the shoulder seam to the lapel notch. |
Standard sample, mannequin, ruler, tape measure |
Compliance with the standard sample. the shelves should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the model, the sides should not be deformed; the corners of the collar and lapels should not bend, the collar should not be skewed, the neck should not be stretched or over-set, the collar should fit snugly to the neck and cover the stitching seam into the neck in those products where this is provided for by the standard sample, the bend line of the lapels should not must be lower or higher than that established by the standard sample; the sleeves should not deviate forward or backward, the fit of the sleeves along the armholes should be distributed in accordance with the standard sample; the sides of the splines should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the standard sample; the upper side of the spline should fit snugly to the bottom; the top of the product, lining, gaskets must not be deformed as a result of shortening, narrowing or distortion |
|
4. Materials (presence of defects in the appearance of materials) |
Check by external inspection from the top and lining, including closed parts of the product, guided by the requirements of the standards for grading of finished products |
Standard sample for materials, ruler, tape measure, textile magnifying glass |
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5. Execution of individual components and parts |
|||
|
5.1. Symmetrical shape and arrangement of paired parts |
Organoleptic and measuring. Combine paired parts and measure them. The symmetry of the sides is checked by folding the sides, aligning the ends of the ledges, the upper edges of the lapels and the lower corners of the sides; At the same time, check the symmetry of the location of the loops and buttons. The symmetry of the ends of the collar is checked by folding the collar in the middle, aligning the shoulder seams. The symmetry of the sleeves is checked by comparing them with each other and measuring from the shoulder seam to the first seam of the sleeve. |
Standard sample, dummy, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor |
Symmetrical shape, size and arrangement of paired parts and parts of the product: lapels, sides, yokes, pockets, collar ends, sleeves, sleeve cuffs and trouser hems, folds, reliefs, gathers, flounces, ruffles, trims, embroideries, etc. in accordance with the reference sample |
|
5.2. Location of parts |
Measuring. Measure the distance of the parts from the seams or edges of the product. The position of parts located at an angle to the edge of the main part is checked using a triangle or a protractor. The location of folds and reliefs is checked by measuring the distance between the folds and reliefs |
Triangle, protractor |
Compliance with the standard model and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation. In hats, the middle of the visor should coincide with the middle of the band, wall, head, front |
|
5.3. Edges of parts |
Organoleptic and measuring. The shape and evenness of the edges of the parts are checked by external inspection. The evenness of the straight edges of the parts is checked by placing the edge of the ruler on the edge of the part and measuring the deviations in individual areas from the straight line |
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure |
Correspondence of design lines to the standard sample; there should be no curvature or disruption of the edge configuration of the part |
|
5.4. Processing of finishing edging, edging of facing parts of pocket frames |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection and measuring the width in separate areas |
Ruler, tape measure |
Width uniformity; there should be no excessive fit or stretching; edge location in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.5. The direction of the pattern in the parts of the product, the coincidence of the pattern when connecting parts in places specified in the technical documentation, the symmetry of the pattern in paired parts |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection and measurement along the edge of the part |
Standard sample, triangle, protractor, ruler, tape measure |
Accuracy of pattern matching when connecting parts, symmetry of arrangement in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation and a reference sample |
|
5.6. Stitches, lines and seams |
Organoleptic and measuring. The evenness of the stitches and seams is checked by external inspection. In case of pronounced curvature, which affects the appearance and strength of the product, measure the length of the section of the seam or stitch on which the curvature is allowed, and determine the amount of curvature. The stitch frequency is checked by counting the number of stitches per 5 cm of line, buttonholes - per 1 cm of line The tension of the threads in the lines is checked by external inspection. |
Tape measure, ruler, textile magnifying glass |
There should be no gaps, tension or slackness of the material and threads in the stitches, curvature of the stitches and seams; the location of the stitches from the edges of the parts or seams, the presence of bartacks and securing the ends of the stitches, the frequency of stitches and the width of the seams, the color and number of thread folds - in accordance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.7. Internal fastening of parts |
Organoleptic. Check by touch, slightly pulling the bonded layers of material |
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions |
|
|
5.8. Adhesive connection of parts |
Organoleptic. Check by touch, slightly moving the bonded layers |
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions; there should be no glue on the front or back side of the product, peeling or warping |
|
|
5.9. Processing fasteners, bartacks, fastening accessories |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by fastening or aligning the sides, trims, bow of trousers, edges of the zipper, etc. The correct direction of straight loops is checked by applying a right triangle, aligning one leg with the edge of the part or pattern of the material, the other with the slot of the loop, and oblique loops with a protractor. Sewing buttonholes and bartacks, fastening of accessories is checked by external inspection and counting the number of stitches |
Ruler, tape measure, right triangle, textile magnifying glass, protractor |
There should be no slack or tension in the material; size, shape, direction, coincidence of the transverse pattern along the edge of the fastener - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.10. Quilting the parts |
Organoleptic and measuring |
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure |
Compliance with the standard sample; there should be no distortions of parts; thickness (weight) and uniformity of the filler flooring - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.11. Availability of internal gaskets |
Organoleptic. Check by touch, moving the layers in relation to each other |
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
|
5.12. Tolerances |
Organoleptic and measuring. The location, number and dimensions of extensions are checked according to regulatory and technical documentation |
Ruler, tape measure |
|
|
5.13. Slices |
Organoleptic and measuring. Overcasting, edging, fusing, cutting out sections is checked by external inspection, measuring sections |
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure |
Compliance with the standard sample, the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation and technological regimes. The cuts should be elastic and should not crumble. |
7. The appearance and fit of the product is determined in ironed, marketable products, on mannequins of a typical build; figures or forms of appropriate sizes.
8. Methods for measuring main and auxiliary linear measurements of products must correspond to those indicated in Table 2-9 and Figure 1-9.
6-8. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
table 2
Shoulder products
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
1 |
Back length |
Along the middle of the back from the collar seam to the bottom. For a product without a collar, measure from the edge of the middle of the back neck to the bottom |
|
2 |
Back width |
Between the seams of the sleeves, the edges of the armholes (in products without sleeves) in the narrowest place at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
3 |
Product width at armhole depth |
In men's and children's shirts with a fastener buttoned down to the bottom |
|
4 |
The length of the sleeve |
Along the middle of the top from the highest point of the cuff to the bottom or bottom edge of the cuff. In a raglan or one-piece sleeve - along the middle of the upper part or along the middle seam from the collar stitching seam to the bottom |
|
5 |
Collar length |
Along the seam, sew the collar into the neck from one end to the other end or in a straight line. Shirt collar - along the stand between the outer ends of the loops or from the outer end of the loop to the center of the button. In shirts made to government order, from the center of the button to 1/3 of the buttonhole (from its outer edge) |
|
6 |
Waist width |
Along the waistline from the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. In a product that is not cut off along the waist line, measurements are taken at the level specified in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
|
7 |
Product width at hip level |
Along the hip line from the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. The measurement is carried out at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
8 |
Product width at bottom |
From the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back in a straight line |
|
9 |
Length of the back to the waist in products cut at the waist line |
Along the middle of the back from the collar sewing seam or the edge of the middle back neckline (in a product without a collar) to the sewing seam along the waist line |
|
10 |
Back yoke length |
Along the middle of the back from the seam of the collar or the edge of the middle of the back neck (in a product without a collar) to the bottom of the yoke |
|
11 |
Front length |
Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom, parallel to the edge of the bead or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation on |
|
12 |
Length of the front to the waist in products cut at the waist line |
Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the level of the waist line, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
13 |
Front yoke length |
Along the front or front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom of the yoke, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the line of the middle front or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
14 |
Front or chest width |
From the sleeve seam to the edge of the bead at the narrowest point. In a product without sides - between the seams of the sleeves in the narrowest place. In a raglan cut product and with one-piece sleeves, measurements are taken at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
15 |
Length of shoulder or lapel at top |
Along the edge of the ledge of the side or lapel from the end of the ledge to the corner of the side or lapel |
|
16 |
Strap length |
Along the middle of the strap between its ends or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
17 |
Length of strap made of parts |
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end of each part or from one end to the other or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
18 |
Belt length |
Along the middle of the belt from the edge of the belt to the buckle to the end or according to the technical documentation for the product. Belt without buckle - between the ends of the belt |
|
19 |
Width of strap or belt |
At the ends of the strap, belt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
20 |
Sleeve width at top |
At the top along the bottom of the sleeve in a straight line at the level of the largest part opening (in one-piece sleeves - at the level of the undercut corners) from the roll fold to the elbow bend or from the front fold to the back |
|
21 |
Sleeve width at elbow level |
Folded in half between the folds from the highest point of the sleeve at the distance specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
22 |
Sleeve width at bottom |
Double folded |
|
23 |
Cuff width |
At the ends or in the middle of the cuff from the top edge to the bottom |
|
24 |
Cuff length |
Along the cuff from one end to the other or folded in half |
|
25 |
Elbow pad length |
Along the middle of the elbow pad or along the seam from the top edge to the bottom |
|
26 |
Elbow pad width |
Along the top and bottom edges in the widest part |
|
27 |
Spline length |
There are slots along the outer edge from the bartack to the bottom |
|
28 |
Collar width |
At the ends and in the middle of the lower collar from the stitching seam (or stitching) or from the lower edge of the stand to the edge of the flyaway |
|
29 |
Rack width |
At the ends and in the middle of the stand from the stitching seam to the edge of the stand |
|
30 |
Departure width |
At the ends and in the middle of the take-off from the stitching seam to the edge of the take-off |
|
31 |
Plank length |
Along the middle of the placket from the seam of the collar or cuff, waistband to the end of the toe or the bottom edge of the placket |
|
32 |
Plank width |
Above - between the edges, below - between the upper corners of the toe or edges |
|
33 |
From the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap and in the place provided for in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
|
|
34 |
Location of leaves, welt and patch pockets, valves |
From the edge of the side or the middle of the front to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap |
|
35 |
Along the opening of the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket, or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
|
36 |
Width of leaflet, flap, pocket frame |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges. In shaped valves, additional measurements are taken in wide areas |
|
37 (Fig. 3) |
Hem width |
At the top at the level of the stitching of the end of the collar, at the bottom from the edge of the side to the seam of the stitching of the lining or to the inner edge of the lining in products without lining. In a product with lapels with an obtuse angle - from the corner of the lapel to the seam of the lining. In a product with rounded sides - at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
Table 3
Belt items: trousers, long johns, briefs
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
1 |
Side seam length |
Along the side seam from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the bottom In trousers worn tucked into boots - in a straight line from the seam of the belt to the bottom |
|
2 |
Half belt length or waist width |
Sew along the seam of the waistband from the edge of the front half to the middle seam. In a product without a belt - along the upper edge, folded in half and straightened from one edge to the other |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
3 |
Width at center seam |
From back half fold to front half fold or from side fold to step fold |
|
4 |
Width at knee level |
From the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half or from the side fold to the step fold (measured at the level specified in the technical specifications for the product) |
|
5 |
Width at bottom |
Along the edge of the hem from the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half, or from the side fold to the instep fold, or along the bottom edge of a double folded cuff |
|
6 |
Cuff width |
Along the edges of the fold and along the seams from the top edge to the bottom |
|
7 |
Middle seam length |
Along the middle seam from the crotch seams to the waist seam, in products without a belt - to the top edge |
|
8 |
Length of strap, straps |
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end; the length of the strap with a buckle is up to the edge where the strap is attached to the buckle |
|
9 |
Width of strap, straps |
Along the stitching seam and at the free ends from one edge to the other |
|
10 |
Crotch length |
Along the crotch from the middle seam to the bottom In long johns and shorts, measure on the right side |
|
11 |
The width of the belt |
At the ends from the belt stitching seam to the top edge or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
12 |
Plank length |
Along the middle of the placket from the waistband seam to the end of the toe or bottom edge of the placket |
|
13 |
Belt Loop Length |
Along the belt loop in the middle from one edge to the other |
|
14 |
Width of belt loops, straps |
At the ends above and below |
|
15 |
Spline length |
There are slots along the edge from the bartack to the edge of the bottom of the product or the inner edge of the stitching part. In the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the tack |
|
16 |
Length of knee pad or other reinforcement pads |
Along the middle from top to bottom |
|
17 |
Length of the sides of the knee pad or other reinforcing pads |
|
|
18 |
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the top |
Between the top corners |
|
19 |
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the bottom |
Between the bottom corners |
|
20 |
Location of the knee pad or other reinforcing parts |
From the edge of the main part to the corner or edge of the knee pad or other reinforcement parts |
|
21 |
Lei width at top |
From the edge of the lei on the back half to the middle seam (when connecting the middle sections with a hemming seam or a lock seam, the measurement is taken along the right half) or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
22 |
At the level of the middle seam from the edge of the lei on the back half to the edge of the lei on the front half or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
23 |
Lei width at knee level |
From the top corner, edge of the lei on the front half to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half |
|
24 |
Width of the lei at the bottom |
From the bottom corner of the edge, on the front half, to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back half, or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
25 |
Length of the sides of the lei |
Along the sides from the top corner to the bottom |
|
26 |
Length of the lei along the crotch seam |
Along the crotch from the top edge (at the middle seam) to the bottom of the lei |
|
27 |
Location of the lei along the middle seam |
Along the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the top edge of the lei |
|
35 |
Length of valve, leaflet, pocket entrance |
Along the entrance to the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
36 |
Flap width, leaves, pocket frames |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges; in figured valves additionally measured in wide areas |
Table 4
Waist products: skirts
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
1 |
Skirt length |
Along the middle of the front and back panels from the top edge or waistband seam to the bottom |
|
2 |
Skirt waist width |
Along the upper edge of the belt or skirt (buttoned, with an elastic band threaded through) |
|
3 |
Skirt width at hip level |
From the left to the right side fold or from the middle of the front panel to the middle of the back (measured at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product) |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
4 |
Skirt bottom width |
From the edge of the left to the edge of the right side fold in a straight line or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back panel of the skirt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
5 |
The width of the belt |
Between the top and bottom edges of the belt |
|
6 |
Length of the cut (clasp) of the skirt |
Along the edge of the slit from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the skirt to the bartack |
Table 5
Hats
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Main Dimension |
||
|
1 |
Inner circumference |
The measurement is made with a ring gauge or a ruler folded in half. The compressed ring is inserted inside the headdress or band. The ring is pulled apart until it fits completely so that the product is held on it |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
2 |
Width of forehead and half-forehead |
Between the upper and lower edges of the forehead or half-forehead |
|
3 |
Band height |
From the bottom edge to the band stitching seam |
|
4 |
Wall height |
From the stitching seam of the band to the stitching seam of the bottom along the stitching seam or in the middle (in hats that have edgings along the top of the band and along the bottom, the width of the edging is not included in the measurement) |
|
5 |
Visor length |
Along the lower edge of the band or head from one edge of the visor to the other |
|
6 |
Visor width |
In the middle of the visor from the lower edge of the band or head to the edge of the visor |
|
7 |
Single strap length |
Along the strap between the centers of the buttons or sewing points |
|
8 |
Double strap half length |
Along the strap from the inner edge of the loop to the end of the strap |
|
9 |
Band width |
At the ends and in the middle from one edge to the other |
|
10 |
Cap front height |
Above the middle of the visor from the seam of the visor to the seam of the bottom |
|
11 |
Wedge length |
In the middle of the wedge from the bottom to the corner of the wedge at the top or to the center of the button |
|
12 |
Wedge width |
Along the bottom edge between the wedge seams |
|
13 |
Beret height |
From the bottom edge to the bottom stitching seam |
|
14 |
Bottom length and width |
Measure along two mutually perpendicular lines (diameters), while the line in front must coincide with the seam of the walls (in caps that have a piping along the bottom, the width of the piping is not included in the measurement) |
|
15 |
Length of the longitudinal arc of the head |
From the front cutout, the seam connecting the head with the brim, visor and other parts through the middle of the head to the other edge |
|
16 |
Margin width |
Front, back and sides from the edge of the brim to the stitching seam to the head |
|
17 |
Side length |
Along the seam of attaching the side to the head from one end to the other |
|
18 |
Side height |
In the middle from the seam of stitching the side to the head to the edge |
|
19 |
Earphone length |
In the middle of the earphone from the stitching seam to the head to the edge |
|
20 |
Earphone width |
At the level of the top edge of the side from one edge to the other |
|
21 |
Hat string length |
From the place of stitching to the end of the tie in a straightened form |
|
22 |
Cap wall height |
Front, back and sides from the bottom edge to the seam of the wall to the bottom |
|
23 |
Cap bottom width |
In the middle of the bottom between the stitching seams to the sides of the head |
|
24 |
The height of the sides of the cap |
Front, back and sides from the bottom to the top edge of the side |
|
25 |
Hood face length |
Along the edge of the front opening of the double-folded hood from the bottom corner to the fold |
Table 6
Bed linen, blankets, bedspreads
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
Length of the product |
In the middle of the product and along the sides from one edge to the other When measuring, large-sized products are placed along the table with the sides aligned, folded in half, with the sides facing the person measuring |
|
|
Product width |
In the middle and along the edges of the product |
|
|
Auxiliary measurement |
||
|
Quilt bolster width |
On four sides; along the edges and in the middle of each side from stitch to edge |
|
Table 7
Corsetry
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
7 |
Width under cups |
Folded in half in a straight line from one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other |
|
2 |
Distance from the middle of the front to the side line of the cup insertion |
In the horizontal direction along the seam connecting the parts of the cup through the highest point of the cup between the middle of the front and the side seam of the cup being set in |
|
3 |
Vertical arc length of the bottom of the cup |
In the vertical direction from the stitching seam to the highest point of the cup |
|
4 |
Waist Width |
Folded in half in a straight line from the edge of one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
5 |
Width at hip line |
|
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
6 |
Front center length |
(in waist-pantaloons, belt-pants, grace-pants from the top edge to the gusset stitching seam) |
|
7 |
Product length at the back in the middle |
|
|
8 |
Strap length |
The length of the stitched strap is measured at the center of the strap between the stitched seams. The length of the fastened strap - from the end of the strap to the seam attached to the product |
|
9 |
Length of front and rear stocking holders |
In the middle of the stocking holder from the stitching seam to the product to the buckle |
|
10 |
Distance between stocking holders |
In a straight line from the middle of one stocking holder to the middle of the other |
Table 8
Mittens, gloves, mittens
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
38 |
Length of the product |
In a straight line from top to bottom |
|
39 |
Product width |
From one bend to another at the level of the bend, the thumb stick |
|
39a |
Tip length |
From the bend line to the top edge of the stick |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
40 |
Handheld length |
In a straight line from top to bottom |
|
41 |
Leg length |
In a straight line from the edge to the stitching seam or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
42 |
Gaiter width |
Folded in half in a straight line from fold to fold |
Table 9
Aprons
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
43 |
Length of the product |
In a straight line along the product from top to bottom |
|
44 |
Product width |
In a straight line at waist level from edge to edge |
|
Strap length |
Straight in the middle or along the inner, outer edge in accordance with the technical documentation |
|
Notes to Table 2-9:
1. It is allowed to use a soft measuring tape. If disagreements arise regarding the control results, the soft tape is checked using the measuring instruments specified in clause 4.
2. Product measurements are made without tension, folds and wrinkles with an error of no more than ±1 mm.
3. Depending on the features of the model, the measurement locations and their number may be changed.
The text of the document is verified according to:
official publication
M.: IPK Standards Publishing House, 2001
Approved Resolution of the USSR State Committee on Standards dated June 25, 1982 N 2522
State standard of the USSR GOST 4103-82*
"SEWING PRODUCTS. QUALITY CONTROL METHODS"
Ready-made sewing goods. Methods of quality control
Duration limitation removed in 1992.
Instead of GOST 4103-63
1. This standard applies to all types of garments and establishes methods for quality control of finished products.
2. The quality of products is controlled on a table with a horizontal surface. In addition, the quality of clothing with sides and fastening to the bottom - coats, short coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets and other similar products (except for work and special clothing) is controlled on mannequins or fashion models; the quality of the hats is on the forms.
(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).
3. Dummies used to control the quality of products must comply with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation.
4. To control linear measurements of products, stitch frequency and the size of defects in the appearance of materials, use a non-folding measuring ruler, tape measure, ring gauge, triangle with a division value of 1 mm, textile magnifying glass, protractor.
5. Measurements are made with measuring instruments that have passed state tests in accordance with GOST 8.001-80.
6. Methods for quality control of finished products must comply with table. 1.
7. The appearance and fit of the product is determined in ironed, marketable products, on mannequins of a typical build; figures or forms of appropriate sizes.
8. Methods for measuring main and auxiliary linear measurements of products must correspond to those indicated in table. 2 - 9 and to hell. 19.
6 - 8. (Changed edition. Amendment No. 1).
Table 1
|
Object of control |
Control method |
Control Tool |
A sign characterizing the quality of a product |
|
1. Details of product and control labels |
Organoleptic |
Clear application of details |
|
|
2. Appearance |
Organoleptic |
Reference sample, dummy |
Compliance in silhouette, proportions, design solutions of lines, nodes, parts, materials used (color, texture, compliance with the purpose of the product) with the standard sample and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
2.1. Compliance of the appearance of the product and its configuration with the standard sample |
The product is compared with a reference sample and the appearance of the product is checked for compliance with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documentation for the product. |
||
|
2.2. Wet heat treatment |
Organoleptic |
Reference sample, dummy |
Compliance with the standard sample; clarity of design lines (elements, parts); there should be no creases, folds, wrinkles, seams, lasses or opals |
|
3. Product fit |
The product is put on the mannequin, fastened, and the back, shelves, sides, lapels, collar and sleeves are adjusted. The fit of outerwear without sides, light clothing, lingerie and corsetry is checked simultaneously with the quality of workmanship of the entire product. When checking the collar-neck connection, measure the distance from the middle seam of the lower collar to the corner of the shoulder seam and neck and from the shoulder seam to the lapel notch. |
Standard sample, mannequin, ruler, tape measure |
Compliance with the standard sample. There should be no creases, folds, wrinkles or distortions; the shelves should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the model, the sides should not be deformed; the corners of the collar and lapels should not bend, the collar should not be skewed, the neck should not be stretched or over-set, the collar should fit snugly to the neck and cover the stitching seam into the neck in those products where this is provided for by the standard sample, the bend line of the lapels should not should be lower or higher than the standard lapel; the sleeves should not deviate forward or backward, the fit of the sleeves along the armholes should be distributed in accordance with the standard sample; the sides of the splines should not diverge or overlap one another more than is provided by the standard sample; the upper side of the spline should fit snugly to the bottom; the top of the product, lining, gaskets must not be deformed as a result of shortening, narrowing or distortion |
|
4. Materials (presence of defects in the appearance of materials) |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection from the top and lining, including closed parts of the product, guided by the requirements of the standards for grading of finished products |
Standard sample, for materials, ruler, tape measure, textile magnifying glass |
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5. Execution of individual components and parts | |||
|
5.1. Symmetrical shape and arrangement of paired parts |
Organoleptic and measuring. Combine paired parts and measure them. The symmetry of the sides is checked by folding the sides, aligning the ends of the ledges, the upper edges of the lapels and the lower corners of the sides; At the same time, check the symmetry of the location of the loops and buttons. The symmetry of the ends of the collar is checked by folding the collar in the middle, aligning the shoulder seams. The symmetry of the sleeves is checked by comparing them with each other and measuring from the shoulder seam to the first seam of the sleeve. |
Standard sample, dummy, ruler, tape measure, triangle, protractor |
Symmetrical shape, size and arrangement of paired parts and parts of the product: lapels, sides, pocket yokes, collar ends, sleeves, sleeve cuffs and trouser hems, folds, reliefs, gathers, flounces, ruffles, trims, embroideries, etc. in accordance with the reference sample |
|
5.2. Location of parts |
Measuring. Measure the distance of the parts from the seams or edges of the product. The position of parts located at an angle to the edge of the main part is checked using a triangle or a protractor. The location of folds and reliefs is checked by measuring the distance between the folds and reliefs |
Triangle, protractor |
Compliance with the standard model and the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation. In hats, the middle of the visor should coincide with the middle of the band, wall, head, front |
|
5.3. Edges of parts |
Organoleptic and measuring. The shape and evenness of the edges of the parts are checked by external inspection. The evenness of the straight edges of the parts is checked by placing the edge of the ruler on the edge of the part and measuring the deviations in individual areas from the straight line |
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure |
Correspondence of design lines to the standard sample; there should be no curvature or disruption of the edge configuration of the part |
|
5.4. Processing of finishing edging, edging of facing parts of pocket frames |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection and measuring the width in separate areas |
Ruler, tape measure |
Width uniformity; there should be no excessive fit or stretching; edge location in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.5. The direction of the pattern in the parts of the product, the coincidence of the pattern when connecting parts in places specified in the technical documentation, the symmetry of the pattern in paired parts |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by external inspection and by measuring along the edge of the part. |
Standard sample, triangle, protractor, ruler, tape measure |
Accuracy of pattern matching when connecting parts, symmetry of arrangement in accordance with regulatory and technical documentation and a reference sample |
|
5.6. Stitches, lines and seams |
Organoleptic and measuring. The evenness of the stitches and seams is checked by external inspection. In case of pronounced curvature, which affects the appearance and strength of the product, measure the length of the section of the seam or stitch on which the curvature is allowed, and determine the amount of curvature. The stitch frequency is checked by counting the number of stitches per 5 cm of line, buttonholes - per 1 cm of line The tension of the threads in the lines is checked by external inspection. |
Tape measure, ruler, textile magnifying glass |
There should be no gaps, tension or slackness of the material and threads in the stitches, curvature of the stitches and seams; the location of the stitches from the edges of the parts or seams, the presence of bartacks and securing the ends of the stitches, the frequency of stitches and the width of the seams, the color and number of thread folds - in accordance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.7. Internal fastening of parts |
Organoleptic. Check by touch, slightly pulling the bonded layers of material |
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions |
|
|
5.8. Adhesive connection of parts |
Organoleptic. Check by touch, slightly moving the bonded layers |
Strength, uniformity, compliance with technological conditions; there should be no glue on the front or back side of the product, peeling or warping |
|
|
5.9. Processing fasteners, bartacks, fastening accessories |
Organoleptic and measuring. Check by fastening or combining the sides, trims, bow of trousers,. edges of the zipper, etc. The correct direction of straight loops is checked by applying a right triangle, aligning one leg with the edge of the part or pattern of the material, the other with the slot of the loop, and oblique loops with a protractor. Sewing buttonholes and bartacks, fastening of accessories is checked by external inspection and counting the number of stitches |
Ruler, tape measure, right triangle, textile magnifying glass, protractor |
There should be no slack or tension in the material; size, shape, direction, coincidence of the transverse pattern along the edge of the fastener - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.10. Quilting the parts |
Organoleptic and measuring |
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure |
Compliance with the standard sample, there should be no distortions of parts; thickness (weight) and uniformity of the filler flooring - in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation |
|
5.11. Availability of internal gaskets |
Organoleptic. Check by touch, moving the layers in relation to each other |
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation |
|
|
5.12. Tolerances |
Organoleptic and measuring. The location, number and dimensions of extensions are checked according to regulatory and technical documentation |
Ruler, tape measure | |
|
5.13. Slices |
Organoleptic and measuring. Overcasting, edging, fusing, cutting out sections is checked by external inspection, measuring sections |
Standard sample, ruler, tape measure |
Compliance with the standard sample, the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation and technological regimes. The cuts should be elastic and should not crumble. |
table 2
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
|
Back length |
Along the middle of the back from the collar seam to the bottom. For a product without a collar, measure from the edge of the middle of the back neck to the bottom |
|
|
Back width |
Between the seams of the sleeves, the edges of the armholes (in products without sleeves) in the narrowest place at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Product width at armhole depth |
In men's and children's shirts with a fastener buttoned down to the bottom |
|
|
(drawings 1 - 3) |
The length of the sleeve |
Along the middle of the top from the highest point of the cuff to the bottom or bottom edge of the cuff. In a raglan or one-piece sleeve - along the middle of the upper part or along the middle seam from the collar stitching seam to the bottom |
|
Collar length |
Along the seam, sew the collar into the neck from one end to the other end or in a straight line. Shirt collar - along the stand between the outer ends of the loops or from the outer end of the loop to the center of the button. In shirts made to government order, from the center of the button to 1/3 of the buttonhole (from its outer edge) |
|
|
Waist width |
Along the waistline from the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. In a product that is not cut off along the waist line, measurements are taken at the level specified in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Product width at hip level |
Along the hip line from the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. The measurement is carried out at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Product width at bottom |
From the edge of the side to the middle of the back. In a product without sides - between the side folds or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back in a straight line |
|
Length of the back to the waist in products cut along the talin line |
Along the middle of the back from the collar sewing seam or the edge of the middle back neckline (in a product without a collar) to the sewing seam along the waist line |
|
|
Back yoke length |
Along the middle of the back from the seam of the collar or the edge of the middle of the back neck (in a product without a collar) to the bottom of the yoke |
|
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Front length |
The line of the shelf from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom, parallel to the edge of the bead or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product. |
|
Length of the front to the waist in products cut at the waist line |
Along the front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the level of the waist line, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the mid-front line or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Front yoke length |
Along the front or front from the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the bottom of the yoke, parallel to the edge of the side or half-skid line (in a product without sides - parallel to the line of the middle front or bar), or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
(Fig. 1, 2) |
Front or chest width |
From the sleeve seam to the edge of the bead at the narrowest point. In a product without sides - between the seams of the sleeves in the narrowest place. In a raglan cut product and with one-piece sleeves, measurements are taken at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
Length of shoulder or lapel at top |
Along the edge of the ledge of the side or lapel from the end of the ledge to the corner of the side or lapel |
|
|
Strap length |
Along the middle of the strap between its ends or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Length of strap made of parts |
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end of each part or from one end to the other or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Belt length |
Along the middle of the belt from the edge of the belt to the buckle to the end or according to the technical documentation for the product. Belt without buckle - between the ends of the belt |
|
|
Width of strap or belt |
At the ends of the strap, belt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
(Fig. 2, 3) |
Sleeve width at top |
At the top of the bottom of the sleeve in a straight line at the level of the larger part of the sleeve (in one-piece sleeves - at the level of the corners of the cut) from the roll fold to the elbow bend or from the front fold to the back |
|
Sleeve width at elbow level |
Folded in half between the folds from the highest point of the sleeve at the distance specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Sleeve width at bottom |
Double folded |
|
|
Cuff width |
At the ends or in the middle of the cuff from the top edge to the bottom |
|
|
Cuff length |
Along the cuff from one end to the other or folded in half |
|
|
Elbow pad length |
Along the middle of the elbow pad or along the seam from the top edge to the bottom |
|
|
Elbow pad width |
Along the top and bottom edges in the widest part |
|
|
Spline length |
There are slots along the outer edge from the bartack to the bottom |
|
|
Collar width |
At the ends and in the middle of the lower collar from the stitching seam (or stitching) or from the lower edge of the stand to the edge of the flyaway |
|
|
Rack width |
At the ends and in the middle of the stand from the stitching seam to the edge of the stand |
|
|
Departure width |
At the ends and in the middle of the take-off from the stitching seam to the edge of the take-off |
|
|
Plank length |
Along the middle of the placket from the seam of the collar or cuff, waistband to the end of the toe or the bottom edge of the placket |
|
|
Plank width |
Above - between the edges, below - between the upper corners of the toe or edges |
|
|
From the corner of the shoulder seam and neckline to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap and in the place provided for in the regulatory and technical documentation for the product |
||
|
Location of leaves, welt and patch pockets, valves |
From the edge of the side or the middle of the front to the front upper corner of the pocket, flap |
|
|
(drawings 2 - 3) |
Along the opening of the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket, or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
|
(drawings 2 - 3) |
Width of leaflet, flap, pocket frame |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges. In shaped valves, additional measurements are taken in wide areas |
|
Hem width |
At the top at the level of the stitching of the end of the collar, at the bottom from the edge of the side to the seam of the stitching of the lining or to the inner edge of the lining in products without lining. In a product with lapels with an obtuse angle - from the corner of the lapel to the seam of the lining. In a product with rounded sides - at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
Table 3
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
|
(Fig. 5, 6) |
Side seam length |
Along the side seam from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the bottom In trousers worn tucked into boots - in a straight line from the seam of the belt to the bottom |
|
(Fig. 5, 6) |
Half belt length or waist width |
Sew along the seam of the waistband from the edge of the front half to the middle seam. In a product without a belt - along the upper edge, folded in half and straightened from one edge to the other |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
Width at center seam |
From back half fold to front half fold or from side fold to step fold |
|
|
Width at knee level |
From the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half or from the side fold to the step fold (measured at the level specified in the technical specifications for the product) |
|
|
(Fig. 5, 6) |
Width at bottom |
Along the edge of the hem from the fold of the front half to the fold of the back half, or from the side fold to the instep fold, or along the bottom edge of a double folded cuff |
|
Cuff width |
Along the edges of the fold and along the seams from the top edge to the bottom |
|
|
(Fig. 5, 6) |
Middle seam length |
Along the middle seam from the crotch seams to the waist seam, in products without a belt - to the top edge |
|
(Fig. 4, 5) |
Length of strap, straps |
Along the middle from the stitching seam to the end; the length of the strap with a buckle is up to the edge where the strap is attached to the buckle |
|
Width of strap, straps |
Along the stitching seam and at the free ends from one edge to the other |
|
|
(Fig. 5, 6) |
Crotch length |
Along the crotch from the middle seam to the bottom In long johns and shorts, measure on the right side |
|
The width of the belt |
At the ends from the belt stitching seam to the top edge or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Plank length |
Along the middle of the placket from the waistband seam to the end of the toe or bottom edge of the placket |
|
|
Belt Loop Length |
Along the belt loop in the middle from one edge to the other |
|
|
Width of belt loops, straps |
At the ends above and below |
|
|
Spline length |
There are slots along the edge from the bartack to the edge of the bottom of the product or the inner edge of the stitching part. In the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the tack |
|
|
Length of knee pad or other reinforcing pads |
Along the middle from top to bottom |
|
|
Length of the sides of the knee pad or other reinforcing pads | ||
|
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the top |
Between the top corners |
|
|
Width of knee pad or other reinforcing parts at the bottom |
Between the bottom corners |
|
|
Location of the knee pad or other reinforcing parts |
From the edge of the main part to the corner or edge of the knee pad or other reinforcement parts |
|
|
Lei width at top |
From the edge of the lei on the back half to the middle seam (when connecting the middle sections with a hemming seam or a lock seam, the measurement is taken along the right half) or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
At the level of the middle seam from the edge of the lei on the back half to the edge of the lei on the front half or according to the technical documentation for the product |
||
|
Lei width at knee level |
From the top corner, edge of the linen on the front half to the corner of the edge of the linen on the back half |
|
|
Width of the lei at the bottom |
From the bottom corner of the edge, on the front half, to the corner of the edge of the lei on the back ladle or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Length of the sides of the lei |
Along the sides from the top corner to the bottom |
|
|
Length of the lei along the crotch seam |
Along the crotch from the top edge (at the middle seam) to the bottom of the lei |
|
|
Location of the lei along the middle seam |
Along the middle seam from the belt stitching seam to the top edge of the lei |
|
|
Length of valve, leaflet, pocket entrance |
Along the entrance to the pocket between the bartacks or between the front and back corners of the patch pocket or between the ends of the flap, leaves |
|
|
Flap width, leaves, pocket frames |
At the ends from the stitching seam to the edges; in figured valves additionally measured in wide areas |
|
Table 4
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
|
Skirt length |
Along the middle of the front and back panels from the top edge or waistband seam to the bottom |
|
|
Skirt waist width |
Along the upper edge of the belt or skirt (buttoned, with mastic tape threaded through) |
|
|
Skirt width at hip level |
From the left to the right side fold or from the middle of the front panel to the middle of the back (measured at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product) |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
Skirt bottom width |
From the edge of the left to the edge of the right side fold in a straight line or from the middle of the front to the middle of the back panel of the skirt or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
The width of the belt |
Between the top and bottom edges of the belt |
|
|
Length of the cut (clasp) of the skirt |
Along the edge of the slit from the waistband seam or from the top edge of the skirt to the bartack |
|
Table 5
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
Main Dimension |
||
|
Inner circumference |
The measurement is made with a ring gauge or a ruler folded in half. The compressed ring is inserted inside the headdress or band. The ring is pulled apart until it fits completely so that the product is held on it |
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
Width of forehead and half-forehead |
Between the upper and lower edges of the forehead or half-forehead |
|
|
Band height |
From the bottom edge to the band stitching seam |
|
|
Wall height |
From the stitching seam of the band to the stitching seam of the bottom along the stitching seam or in the middle (in hats that have edgings along the top of the band and along the bottom, the width of the edging is not included in the measurement) |
|
|
Visor length |
Along the lower edge of the band or head from one edge of the visor to the other |
|
|
Visor width |
In the middle of the visor from the lower edge of the band or head to the edge of the visor |
|
|
Single strap length |
Along the strap between the centers of the buttons or sewing points |
|
|
Double strap half length |
Along the strap from the inner edge of the loop to the end of the strap |
|
|
Band width |
At the ends and in the middle from one edge to the other |
|
|
Cap front height |
Above the middle of the visor from the seam of the visor to the seam of the bottom |
|
|
Wedge length |
In the middle of the wedge from the bottom to the corner of the wedge at the top or to the center of the button |
|
|
Wedge width |
Along the bottom edge between the wedge seams |
|
|
Beret height |
From the bottom edge to the bottom stitching seam |
|
|
Bottom length and width |
Measure along two mutually perpendicular lines (diameters), while the line in front must coincide with the seam of the walls (in caps that have a piping along the bottom, the width of the piping is not included in the measurement) |
|
|
Length of the longitudinal arc of the head |
From the front cutout, the seam connecting the head with the brim, visor and other parts through the middle of the head to the other edge |
|
|
Margin width |
Front, back and sides from the edge of the brim to the stitching seam to the head |
|
|
Side length |
Along the seam of attaching the side to the head from one end to the other |
|
|
Side height |
In the middle from the seam of stitching the side to the head to the edge |
|
|
Earphone length |
In the middle, earphone from the stitching seam to the head to the edge |
|
|
Earphone width |
At the level of the top edge of the side from one edge to the other |
|
|
Hat string length |
From the place of stitching to the end of the tie in a straightened form |
|
|
Cap wall height |
Front, back and sides from the bottom edge to the seam of the wall to the bottom |
|
|
Cap bottom width |
In the middle of the bottom between the stitching seams to the sides of the head |
|
|
The height of the sides of the cap |
Front, back and sides from the bottom to the top edge of the side |
|
|
Hood face length |
Along the edge of the front opening of the double-folded hood from the bottom corner to the fold |
|
Table 6
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
|
Length of the product |
In the middle of the product and along the sides from one edge to the other When measuring, large-sized products are placed along the table with the sides aligned, folded in half, with the sides facing the person measuring |
|
|
Product width |
In the middle and along the edges of the product |
|
Auxiliary measurement |
||
|
Quilt bolster width |
On four sides; along the edges and in the middle of each side from stitch to edge |
|
Table 7
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
Basic measurements |
||
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Width under cups |
Folded in half in a straight line from one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Distance from the middle of the front to the side line of the cup insertion |
In the horizontal direction along the seam connecting the parts of the cup through the highest point of the cup between the middle of the front and the side seam of the cup being set in |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Vertical arc length of the bottom of the cup |
In the vertical direction from the stitching seam to the highest point of the cup |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Waist Width |
Folded in half in a straight line from the edge of one fold to the other, in swinging products - unfastened from one end to the other at the level specified in the technical documentation for the product |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Width at hip line | |
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Front center length |
(in waist-pantaloons, belt-pants, grace-pants from the top edge to the gusset stitching seam) |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Middle back length | |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Strap length |
The length of the stitched strap is measured at the center of the strap between the stitched seams. The length of the fastened strap - from the end of the strap to the seam attached to the product |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Length of front and rear stocking holders |
In the middle of the stocking holder from the stitching seam to the product to the buckle |
|
(Fig. 8, 9) |
Distance between stocking holders |
In a straight line from the middle of one stocking holder to the middle of the other |
Table 8
|
Measurement number on drawing |
Name of measurement location |
Product measurement method |
|
Basic measurements |
||
|
Length of the product |
In a straight line from top to bottom |
|
|
Product width |
From one bend to another at the level of the bend, the thumb stick |
|
|
Tip length |
From the bend line to the top edge of the stick |
|
|
Auxiliary measurements |
||
|
Handheld length |
In a straight line from top to bottom |
|
|
Leg length |
In a straight line from the edge to the stitching seam or according to the technical documentation for the product |
|
|
Gaiter width |
Folded in half in a straight line from fold to fold |
|
Table 9
Notes to the table 2 - 9:
1. It is allowed to use a soft measuring tape. If disagreements arise regarding the control results, the soft tape is checked using the measuring instruments specified in clause 4.
2. Product measurements are made without tension, folds and wrinkles with an error of no more than ±1 mm.
3. Depending on the features of the model, the measurement locations and their number may be changed.
* Reissue (October, 1988) with Amendments No. 1, approved in March 1986 (IUS 6-86)
.png)
