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The name “tie” in Russian comes from Dutch. halsdoek and it. h.Halstuch, meaning "neck scarf". However, in European languages another root is more common - from fr. cravate. From French this word migrated to many European languages (for example, German Krawatte, Spanish. corbata, Ukrainian crib, room Cravată, tour. kravat, Polish krawat). The French word probably comes from “croat” (“Croat”).
The color and pattern of the tie is selected in accordance with other items of clothing and the event. For everyday wear, ties of dark colors with a small repeating pattern or one larger pattern that does not attract much attention are used. Dark ties are usually worn with light shirts.
The first mention of ties can be found in the history of Ancient Egypt, where a piece of fabric of a regular geometric shape, thrown over the shoulders, served as a symbol of the social status of its owner. Also, the ancient Chinese were among the first to wear ties. This is evidenced by stone statues near the tomb of Emperor Shi Huang - bandages are tied on the necks of nobles and warriors, reminiscent of modern ties in shape. However, these headbands were too far from modern ties both in the method of wearing and in shape and were deprived of the main attribute of a modern tie - a knot.
Before this discovery, the inventors of the tie were considered to be Roman legionnaires who wore the so-called “focale”. Their images are preserved on the Column of Emperor Trajan, erected in honor of his victories in 113 AD. e.
Since the end of the 16th century, men have worn camisoles. And as decoration they wore a round corrugated hard collar. It often took the form of a large disc covering the neck, which could reach several centimeters in thickness. It was made of white fabric and starched so that it would not lose its shape.
Over time, it was replaced by a wide turn-down collar with teeth that covered the shoulders. This style of collar was sometimes called “van dyke”. It was worn, for example, by the Puritans.
It is assumed that when Croatian officers, who in the 17th century wore bright silk neckerchiefs, as a reward for their courage and valor during the Thirty Years' War, were invited to the court of the French Queen Anne of Austria, their unusual accessory was noticed by King Louis XIV himself, who couldn’t resist and also tied something similar on himself, becoming the first trendsetter in tie fashion in France, and consequently throughout Europe. Hence one of the versions of the origin of the French word cravate (French - tie), as a derivative of the self-name of the Croats.
In the 17th century, a long vest came into fashion, which men wore under a regular camisole. A scarf-like scarf was tied around the neck. He was wrapped around his neck several times, and his loose ends hung on the chest. Paintings from the late 17th century indicate that by that time such neckerchiefs had gained extreme popularity. They were made from muslin, cambric and even lace.
There were many options for knots on such a scarf. The bow resembled a modern bow tie. As you know, there were at least a hundred ways to tie a neckerchief. They say that the English dandy Brummel (Brummel), who influenced men's fashion, could spend the whole morning trying to tie a neckerchief according to all the rules.
In the 18th century, a neckerchief with long ends began to be called a tie, and in the second half of the 19th century it already resembled a modern tie in appearance. It was also called a self-knit tie. Collared shirts came into fashion. Now the tie was knotted under the chin, and its long ends hung over the starched shirt. It was at this time that the tie became what we know it today. It should be noted that without the subsequent spread of fashion for wearing ties in England, it is unlikely that they would have acquired the importance that they have in modern business fashion. In England, wearing ties was elevated to the rank of a high art, and a gentleman was offered a choice of up to a hundred different ways of tying. It was also believed that the most serious offense for a man could be a statement about his tie, “the offense from which can only be washed away with blood.”
During the French Revolution (1789-1799), the color "croat" indicated a person's political beliefs. In the 19th century, the dandies of European society rediscovered this accessory. It was then that the tie ceased to belong only to military men and politicians and migrated to the wardrobe of ordinary citizens.
Analyzing the findings of the publication of British scientists, Swedish mathematician Mikael Vejdemo-Johansson from the Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm noticed that the Ediety node, which is used by the character of the film “The Matrix Reloaded” Merovingian, is not listed in the Cambridge University study. He found that this study ignored nodes that had multiple loops. Vejdemo-Johansson and three of his colleagues developed a special coding for the possible actions in tie knots, denoting them with the letters W, T and U, where, for example, U meant “putting the wide end under the narrow end.” As a result of computer calculations, scientists came to the conclusion that there are more than 177 thousand variants of nodes. However, mathematicians have stipulated that not all possible knots are suitable for practical use in this context, for example, there are knots where the wide end is turned outward or some knots require a tie that is too long. There is a site called tieknots.johanssons.org with a random node generator.
Some popular tie knots:
“A gracefully tied tie is the first important step in life.”
Oscar Wilde
It's hard to imagine modern men's fashion without such an accessory. like a tie. After all, this is the main decoration and business card any man.
An English gentleman was required to master the art of tying tie knots in various ways, and the most serious insult was considered to be a negative comment about his tie. In the material we will give a description of this accessory, as well as outline the history of its origin.
According to the Oxford Dictionary, the origin of the name "tie" goes back to the word "Croatian".
Who invented it? It is believed that Croatian cavalrymen who fought for France against the Habsburg Empire wore neckerchiefs as part of their uniform. When the French asked the Croats what was on their necks, the soldiers thought they were being asked about their nationality.
Because of this misunderstanding, the word meaning tie emerged.
The word "tie" first appeared in Russia during the reign of Peter I and comes from two German words - “neck” and “scarf”.
Interesting: a grabologist is a collector of ties.
Now about the history of the tie in more detail. Louis XIV, amazed by the elegance of the scarves of Croatian soldiers, made this accessory a sign of the nobility and declared himself the founder of modern fashion. The king did not even suspect that the history of the origin of the tie goes back centuries.
The first mention of the prototype of a modern accessory belongs to the history of Ancient Egypt.
The strips of fabric were rectangular in shape and indicated the social status of the owner.
The ancient Chinese are also among the first to wear ties. But these bandages serve as protection against chafing from armor. They only vaguely resemble an attribute of a modern man.
Roman legionnaires were the first to tie their neckerchiefs in knots.
Which makes them look like a modern tie.
The Romanians adopted the ancient Roman tradition of wearing ties.
Then only the Croats.
Fashion reached England 150 years after France. The British began making ties of unusual colors and patterns from wool, silk and satin. It was at this time that it was invented a large number of nodes, where the most famous became “Bayronsky”.
In 1827, Honoré de Balzac wrote the book “The Art of Wearing a Tie,” where he gives recommendations on what to wear with a tuxedo or tailcoat and describes all types of the accessory.
In 1924, the first patent was received for a tie, consisting of three parts, cut on the bias.
The tie has undergone many changes throughout its long history, but remains the most important part of a man's look. After all, the corporate code in modern world Requires a suit and tie.
There are more than a hundred in the world various types nodes and when selecting, you need to pay attention to factors such as:
There are 5 most popular types of nodes:
Currently, there are no strict canons regarding shape or color.
You should only adhere to the following general rules:
Important: The end of the tie should reach the belt buckle.
A clip (hairpin) and a pin are traditional elements of men's clothing and are intended for fastening.
The color should be in harmony with the watch and ring.
The beginning of the history of ties in Europe is considered to be the second half of the 17th century, when a regiment of Croatian soldiers arrived in Paris to commemorate the victory over the Ottoman Empire. Croatia at that time was part of Austria-Hungary, which in turn was an ally of France. The officers of the Croatian regiment wore bright silk scarves around their necks, which quickly attracted the interest of curious Parisians. The French, pointing at them, asked - what is this? The Croats, who did not know French, thought that they were being asked, who are you, and they answered, Croatian. So this scarf got its name from the French "Croates" (Croat) later the word changed to Cravat. In most European languages this name still remains in slightly different spellings. Soon this fashionable item became of interest to Louis XIV himself, who was reputed to be a very fashionable man. Soon the king established a regiment of "Royal Cravattes", the distinctive regalia of the soldiers of this regiment was the same Croatian scarf. Soon, a similar silk scarf quickly became fashionable.
However, there is evidence that the word was used in France in the 14th century and in Italy in the 16th century. In one of his ballads, the French writer Eustache Deschamps (1340-1407), used the phrase "faites restraindre sa cravate". Given the interdependence of many European regions (particularly France) with the Venetian Empire, and the fact that this Empire at one time occupied the bulk of the Croatian coastline, this kind of cross-culturalization would not be unprecedented.
And most likely, the Croats themselves were not the inventors of this decoration, but simply borrowed them from Roman legionnaires. Roman legionnaires wore neckerchiefs - fascalia. They tied them around the neck to prevent it from being rubbed by the plates of the shell. The Romans used to put their armor directly on a woolen shirt with short sleeves. Such a scarf was also worn by those soldiers who wore chain mail instead of armor. The Trojan Pillar, erected by the notorious Roman Emperor Troyan in 113 AD, has been preserved, on which 2.5 thousand figures are carved, around the neck of which are wrapped and tied simple knot neckerchiefs, almost completely hidden under armor.
New item clothing began to come into fashion throughout Europe, where men and women began to wear pieces of fabric around their necks. At the end of the seventeenth century, men began to wear lace ties, which required enormous effort and time to tie and bring them into proper shape. In 1715, a new type of tie, the “Stocks,” appeared, which was a small piece of muslin simply wrapped several times around the neck and pinned.
During the times of wearing wigs, scarves became larger and bulkier, usually tied in front with a large bow, and at the same time the pin appeared. The tie remained in this form until about 1850; by the way, already at the beginning of the 19th century, the first publications devoted to how to tie a tie began to appear.
With the beginning of the industrial revolution, the tie began to be simplified, new forms began to appear, in particular the Ascot and bow tie, which have survived to this day. The scarf also changed, became smaller and triangular scarves appeared that were either tied at the front or threaded through a ring. Examples can be seen in films about the pioneers of the Wild West and English sailors.
In its current form, the tie appeared only in 1926 in New York, when Jesse Langsdorf first sewed and patented a tie made from 3 pieces of fabric cut on the bias. This cut contributed to the elasticity of the tie; it did not twist and always took its original shape.
Everyone wears a tie: adults and children, men and women. We have. In Arab countries, for example, they do not wear ties - this is prohibited by fundamentalist Islam. But this does not mean that there are no gentlemen or elegantly and stylishly dressed men in Arab countries. Why did this happen?
The tie is usually credited with a centuries-old history. Some sources claim that the tie came from a German neckerchief called “halstuch”. Others suspect the Croats and the Sun King Louis XIV, who in 1660 saw cravat scarves on Croatian soldiers and got the idea to introduce this accessory into the costume of a contemporary nobleman.
“What are these strange scarves tied around the necks of these riders? I liked them. Make sure I have a dozen of the same scarves tomorrow.”
Louis XIV
But, wait a minute! A scarf is not a tie at all! And these days there are both neckerchiefs and ties as independent accessories! If we consider the neckerchief to be the “father” of the tie, then let’s write the scarf as the “mother” - after all, it is also worn around the neck! And at the same time the collar, which in the recent past was a separate detail of the suit! And a boa too... and a choker... However, a choker is perhaps closer to a tie than even a neckerchief.
For a long time different nations There were all kinds of neckerchiefs. For example, it is believed that they are one of the most ancient cervical ones found in China. These finds date back to the 3rd century BC. The next generation is considered to be the neckerchiefs of the Roman legionnaires, who were tied over a woolen shirt so that the armor plates would not rub the neck.
It is believed that the Romanians inherited the tradition of wearing neckerchiefs from the Romans, and then the “focales” were adopted by the Croatian horsemen, who made it part of the uniform.
Ancient Egypt also had scarves. They were thrown over the shoulders and indicated the status of the owner.
Sources rarely remember that the neckerchief was intended not only to protect the neck from armor or to wipe the face, nose during a runny nose, or mouth during meals. Pirates also wore scarves. And remember Zorro, whose neckerchief turned 180 degrees into black mask for face.
The history of the tie should be divided into the era of the cravat and the era of the modern tie. And the modern tie was patented not so long ago - in 1924.
Neck scarves were indeed varied in both shape and methods of tying. But they all had a common drawback: they did not remain in their original position - any gust of wind or sudden movement led to chaos in the harmony of the folds. In 1924, in the United States, Jesse Langsdorf, an entrepreneur, received a patent for the “ideal tie.” Cut on the bias and consisting of three pieces of fabric, this tie was able to maintain its shape. For fixation, it was still necessary to use special clamps or pins.
With the acquisition of constancy of shape and position as a virtue, the tie lost its pomp and volume. This was compensated by the use of complex fabrics, as well as a variety of knots - ways of tying a tie. There are at least 85 of these methods, and the theoretical maximum is 177,147! But most tie knots are tied using the noose principle.
Special textbooks were published on the art of tying ties. At one time the profession of a teacher was tie knots was considered one of the most prestigious.
The beautiful official history of the tie, when carefully studied, becomes the history of the neckerchief. And a modern tie, both in shape and in the way it is tied, is more reminiscent of a rope noose, traditionally used on the gallows.
Our modern culture has many elements carried over from slave times. And a tie is one of them.
The Masons had a huge influence on society. Masonic symbols are still widely used today, although we do not suspect it. And the origin of the tie also has to do with the Freemasons, and in the most direct way! In Masonic lodges, it was customary to come to meetings with a rope noose around the neck to demonstrate readiness to be punished for disclosing secrets. Later, insignia began to be hung on this rope loop, and over time, the rope was replaced with a piece of fabric. The Masonic society was considered secret, but since it consisted entirely of the highest nobility and was numerous, the Masonic tie quickly became a sign of aristocracy. So the Masonic rope loop was transformed into a tie and came out into the world.
Before the invention of the guillotine and firearms, hanging was a popular method of execution. A Stolypin tie, by the way, is nothing more than a rope loop. The art of arranging the gallows and the procedure itself was approached carefully; the executioners had plenty of work to do. And echoes of that era can be heard to this day. Who hasn’t heard that rope should be soaped beforehand to reduce friction? But, despite theoretical research and extensive practical experience, corruption sometimes intervened in the matter. For example, they could purchase dilapidated wood or rotten rope that broke. The executioner could also be corrupt and take bribes for using bad ropes. The breaking of the rope during execution was equivalent to pardon - the condemned person was released, as this meant the will from above. A piece of rope noose around the neck was associated with luck, and those who were not hanged were in no hurry to remove it.
IN Ancient Rome slaves wore rope "ties". In the event that a slave did something wrong or the owner became angry with the slave just like that, it was possible to pull the end of the noose tie and strangle its owner. But the slaves did not lose heart - they painted their noose ties in different colors and decorated with trinkets. The rope tie was a symbol of slavery.
Absurd? Surr? These historical facts about the tie are not usually made public. Who would wear a tie once they realized its true origins? If knowledge of history alone is not enough, then life experience comes to the rescue. In a real street fight, the first thing you will do is pull your tie - this is the easiest way to neutralize your opponent, depriving his lungs of air (temporarily or permanently).
A tie is called an essential attribute business dress code. Without a tie, you may not be allowed into a business reception or restaurant. Along with this, the tie is called a phallic symbol, and an attribute of the Masonic mysteries, and a noose of Satan, and the equivalent of a fish symbolizing Christ, and also as a “Judas noose.” since, according to one version, Judas hanged himself after his famous crime. In BDSM themes, various stylized ties are an element of the submissive’s attire.
Some people draw a parallel between a tie and a pet leash.
Many of those who attach great importance to their tie and boast of their ability to select and tie it would do well to stop turning up their noses - literally. Lower your head and look carefully down at your socks. Socks, like fish, do not come in second or third freshness - only first and only. Socks are either fresh or stale. Stale socks are not only socks that are not of the highest cleanliness, they are washed out, worn out, socks with pilling, scuffs, faded, and with a loose elastic band. Such socks gather in sloppy folds and spoil the entire impression of a carefully composed look. Even clean shoes are not as important as fresh socks. Boots are easy to get dirty even in a metropolis, but this will not only be the fault of their owner. And the boots can be cleaned quickly and easily. And stale socks worn in the morning are the exclusive merit of the socks’ owner.
Stylish, elegant is not determined by ties alone. male image. Tie market insiders complain about the increasing decline in sales from year to year. For ordinary people, this means one thing: ties are rapidly losing relevance and significance.
What to do, how to stand out from the crowd and emphasize your style? Think about scarves, neckerchiefs, socks, in the end! Socks are not so striking at first glance, but the more weight they acquire at a second, closer look. Watch your socks, learn to pick them up! By the way, socks are not burdened with such a dubious past as ties.
The general public knows that in Europe, the history of ties began with Louis XIV, who liked the “strange scarves”. But world history proves that even Roman legionnaires wore scarves around their necks. But it was Louis who made it a sign of belonging to the nobility, and who proclaimed himself the founder of modern fashion for clothes.
In German, a tie sounds like Halstuch; when translated into Russian, this word means “”.
It didn't take long for the fashion to catch on in the UK. After 150 years, a similar scarf could be seen on the neck of every Englishman.
The first mention can be found in the history of Ancient Egypt, where a piece of regular geometric shape, thrown over the shoulders, served as a kind of symbol of the social status of its owner. Also, the ancient Chinese were among the first to wear ties. This is evidenced by stone statues near the tomb of Emperor Shihuan Di - on the necks of nobles and warriors there are bandages tied, reminiscent of modern ties in shape. However, these headbands were too far from modern ties, both in the way they were worn and in shape, and were deprived of the main attribute of a modern tie - a knot.
The appearance of neckerchiefs in Ancient Rome marked the beginning of the era of ties in the modern sense of the word. However, the real victory of this symbol men's wardrobe It is generally accepted that the year is 1635. After the victory over the Janissaries of the Turkish Sultan, Croatian warriors were invited to the court of the French king Louis the Thirteenth as a reward for their courage and valor shown on the battlefield. Officers of the Croatian army then wore colorful silk scarves. The French king liked the new piece of clothing so much that he could not resist and also tied something similar on himself, becoming the first trendsetter in tie fashion in France, and therefore throughout Europe. Hence one of the versions of the origin of the French word cravatte (French - tie), as a derivative of the self-name of the Croats.
Since the end of the 16th century, men have worn camisoles. And as decoration they wore a round corrugated hard collar. It often took the form of a large disc covering the neck, which could reach several centimeters in thickness. It was made of white fabric and starched so that it would not lose its shape.
Over time, it was replaced by a wide turn-down collar with teeth that covered the shoulders. This style of collar was sometimes called “van dyke”. It was worn, for example, by the Puritans.
In the 17th century, a long vest that men wore under a regular camisole. A scarf-like scarf was tied around the neck. It was wrapped around the neck several times, and its loose ends hung over the chest. Paintings from the late 17th century indicate that by that time such neckerchiefs had gained extreme popularity. They were made from muslin, cambric and even lace.
There were many options for knots on such a scarf. Sometimes, to prevent it from moving, a silk ribbon was tied over it, making a large bow under the chin. This type of neckerchief was called a “solitaire” or “diamond”. The bow resembled a modern bow tie. As you know, there were at least a hundred ways to tie a neckerchief. It is said that the Englishman Frant Brummell, who influenced men's fashion, could spend an entire morning tying a neckerchief according to the rules.
In the 18th century, a neckerchief with long ends began to be called a tie, and in the second half of the 19th century it already resembled a modern tie in appearance. It was also called a self-knit tie. Collared shirts came into fashion. Now the tie was knotted under the chin, and its long ends hung over the starched shirt. It was at this time that the tie became what we know it today. It should be noted that without the subsequent spread of fashion for wearing ties in England, it is unlikely that they would have acquired the importance that they have in modern business fashion. In England, wearing ties was elevated to the rank of a high art, and a gentleman was offered a choice of up to a hundred different ways of tying. It was also believed that the most serious offense for a man could be a statement about his tie, “the offense from which can only be washed away with blood.”
In Russia, Peter I began to promote ties as a sign of a civilized appearance. The history of this planting was difficult and at times funny.
The emperor was even forced to issue rules for using a tie, which stated that “it is not appropriate to wipe your face with a tie and you are not ordered to blow your nose with it.” Since then, expressive names such as “noose”, “loop”, “snake” have been invented to name a toilet item that is forcibly introduced.
During the French Revolution (1789-1799), the color "croat" indicated a person's political beliefs. In the 19th century, the dandies of European society rediscovered this accessory. It was then that the tie ceased to belong only to military men and politicians and migrated to the wardrobe of ordinary citizens.
In 1827, the famous writer Honore de Balzac wrote a book called The Art of Wearing a Tie, in which he described the aesthetic necessity of tying a tie. The Byron-style tie was a wide-tied scarf that did not constrict the throat. The “tragic” black tie was part of mourning and uniform wear. "Walter Scott" was made from checkered fabric. White tie was intended for formal wear at balls, evenings and dinner parties; it was supposed to be worn with a tailcoat or tuxedo, but in no case with a jacket. It should be added that in Balzac’s time, ties were made of silk, wool, and satin with various patterns.
In 1924, all versions of neckerchiefs and scarves were given a definitive “no”: American entrepreneur Jesse Langsdorf patented his “ideal tie.” This tie was made - and is still made - from three parts, cut on the bias. The consequence of this patent was the widespread displacement of cross ties and the standardization of long ties in stripes, bias checks or pay-slashes. These designs became the basis for English club and college ties, allowing their owners to in a simple way report their affiliation.
The history of the invention of the regatta tie is interesting. It is believed that one young athlete, not having much time to fuss with his tie, cut it at the back and then sewed a loop and button onto it so he could put it on again. The new style of tie caught on, and now such ties are an integral part of uniforms.
In the 20th century, the design of the tie changed many times. In the 60s, narrow leather and knitted ties, in the 70s, the riotous colors of wide ties ruled the roost. Fashionable men's and women's clothing.
Throughout its history, the tie has undergone many changes in appearance. According to the rules, the width of the tie should be in harmony with the size of the shirt collar. So, in the early 70s its width reached 13 cm. At the moment, the proportions are in strict business men's clothing assume a tie width of 8.2 cm (options from 7 to 8.9 cm are possible). Traditionally, there are two categories of fabrics from which ties are made: jacquard fabric and silk. Modern technologies allow the fashion designer not to limit the flight of his imagination, but to bring the craziest ideas to life, mixing three or four textures at the same time.
Every decade, the fashion for ties changed, sometimes the fashion of previous years returned, and sometimes the ties had a completely unpredictable look. Today, ties practically do not contain small details; more formal ties in unobtrusive colors have come into fashion. Thanks to the wild imagination of designers and the latest technologies, today it is possible to make ties of, one might say, any texture. Therefore, it will not be difficult for you to choose exactly the tie that will ideally suit and match your suit.
Many people believe that ties are only worn with formal, classic suits. This is wrong. A tie can also be combined with democratic clothes. If you put on, say, denim shirt, jeans and a jacket with a tie - it will be very youthful, but at the same time it will still emphasize a little business style in your suit. You can wear it to work in the office, and it won’t bother anyone.
IN modern fashion There are no clear rules defining the color, pattern, shape and length of a tie. The criterion for its selection is only the style and color of clothing, as well as the taste of the owner. You can choose a tie with classic stripes or a timeless paisley pattern, or you can choose a pattern that imitates pizza or soup stains.
The attitude of modern men towards a tie is different. Some people value a tie because it allows them to emphasize their individuality; many consider it a necessary evil; others call it a “noose” and try to get rid of it at the first opportunity.
Something bad is happening to the gentlemen. With the very concept of “gentleman”. It somehow faded, dried out, faded and lost its presentation. Being a gentleman in the 21st century does not mean leading...
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