Frills or flounces differ from ruffles in that they are usually sewn to the edge of the product, and the latter are sewn onto some part on top.
The strip for frills and frills is cut out one and a half times longer than the finished frill or frill. It is always necessary to take into account the quality of the material, since the thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter it is assembled and the longer the cut strip should be.
The shuttlecock is made from ribbon, straight, oblique or strip cut from a circle. The open edge can be hemmed in a variety of ways. The edges of the tape are not sealed. The edge of a strip of fabric can be hemmed by machine, by hand, or closed with an edge stitch. A frill made from a straight strip of fabric is sewn with a regular connecting seam or with a small head. The frill strip is assembled by hand or by machine.
The top edge of the frill is folded inside out beyond the ruffle line. The frill is sewn along the gather line manually or by machine to the already sealed edge of the product.
Pattern shuttlecocks are made from a whole or half a circle. The smaller the inner cutout of the circle, the more folds there are. If you need to get a long shuttlecock, individual shuttlecocks4 are sewn down with a regular seam and the seam is pressed on one side so that it lies deep in the fold and is not noticeable.
Pattern flounces, as well as frills made from oblique stripes, are sewn to the product stitch seam or the edge of the material is adjusted to the shuttlecock. The edges of the seam are overcast. It is better to assemble ruffles made from oblique strips of fabric (single or double) only once.
The edges of the strips for a regular ruffle are hemmed in the same way as for a frill. In the middle of the strip, two rows of gathers are made, which makes it possible to better distribute them. Ruffles are sewn onto the product by hand or by machine. Depending on the density and quality of the material, as well as the style of the ruffle, all work can be done manually or by machine.
Frills made from straight stripes are hemmed by machine or by hand. The upper folded edge of the frill is collected in two rows and sewn with a head.
A pattern frill or flounce is made from fabric cut in the shape of a circle. The smaller the diameter of the inner cutout, the larger the folds you will get. In order to obtain a shuttlecock of the required length, several separate shuttlecocks are sewn together.
The shuttlecock can be hemmed close to the edge by machine or hand twisted. It is stitched to the product using a regular connecting seam.
It is good to make double ruffles from thin elastic fabrics. Oblique strips cut from double folded fabric are collected and sewn to the product with an open gathered edge.
Zigzag ruffles are a beautiful decoration. To do this, the tucked strip is sewn along a zigzag line. The desired shape is obtained by tightening the thread.
This ruffle is made from a straight strip with the edges hemmed. An assembly is made in the middle in two rows. It is sewn to the material by hand or by machine between the gathering lines.
Shaped ruffles must be made very carefully, only then will they be beautiful. For ruffle, identical folds 2-4 cm wide are placed in the fold on a strip of fabric. On light material they are fixed in the middle, on thick material they are basted and stitched.
For a tulle ruffle, lay a double fold or take 2-3 strips folded together. Ruffles cannot be ironed. In order to give the ruffle an original shape, both edges of each fold can be secured with several stitches (see middle photo).
The rosette ruffle is made in the same way. Such ruffles are best made from taffeta or other similar material. You need to make a fringe along the edges of the strip, and fasten the edges of each fold. Before doing this, the ruffle needs to be sewn onto the dress.
Pleated ruffles are made from a straight strip, the length of which should be three times the length of the finished ruffle.
Rose ruffles are best made from taffeta. On the fringed strip, pleats are placed along the edges, and then they are fastened together again.
Hello, dear readers of the blog site!
Do you want to add femininity, romance, playfulness, and seductiveness to your skirts, dresses or blouses? Make them flounces, frills or ruffles. Just not on all of them, only on some. Don't let it be too much!
Flounces, frills or ruffles are made on models made of thin and medium soft fabrics, so when moving and from the slightest breath of breeze they sway in playful waves as if alive.
Very often, simple sewing lovers confuse flounces, frills, and ruffles with each other.
Frills can be located on products - horizontally, vertically, along yoke lines, along structural seams, etc.
2. The shape of the cut detail (see the cut section below in the article).
Cut the frills.
If necessary, you can cut out the frill yourself.
The cut out part of the frill can have the shape of a rectangle, triangle, trapezoid.
At the same time, short, transverse (1 or 2) and lower longitudinal sections of frills do not always have an even, straight cut line. It can also be curved, and in a wide variety of ways (depending on the desire of the “creator” of the frill and the characteristics of the model). For example, like this.
Most often, the frill pattern is laid out on the fabric along the bias thread, at an angle of 45⁰ to the warp thread, sometimes along the transverse thread.
Frill width.
The width of the frill depends on the style of the model and the properties of the fabric from which the frill is made and can be from 1.5 to 30 cm. To this you also need to add 1.5 - 2 cm for the seams along the upper and lower edges.
Frill length.
The length of the frill cut detail determines how the finished frill will look. The longer the cut detail of the frill, the more tightly gathered its upper cut will be, which means the frill will look more magnificent on the finished product.
For a not very fluffy frill, its upper cut should be 1.5 times longer than the stitching line.
For a normal, good fluffiness of the frill, the upper cut of the frill should be 2 times longer than the stitching line.
Well, for thin, easily draped fabrics, you can take three lengths of the stitching line.
Regardless of the length of the future detail of the frill cut, we add from 0.5 to 1.5 cm (depending on the properties of the fabric and the characteristics of the model) to the seam allowances on the side of each short, transverse section.
Of course, it’s best when the frill is one-piece. It looks better and there is less fuss with its processing. Therefore, when laying out the cut details, do not forget about frills, especially long and wide ones.
Well, when there is not enough fabric for one single piece of frill, you will have to make it up from several, separately cut.
A finished frill, consisting of several separate parts, on some models simply must look like a single whole. And then, the separately cut details of the frill, on some models (optional, depending on the situation) should be ideally combined with each other with patterns of cells, lines, directions floral patterns etc.
On other models, different directions of the pattern on several parts of one frill can become an additional decorative effect. In this case, you need to carefully monitor the symmetry of the arrangement of the pattern of such parts. For example, like this.
Don't forget about seam allowances on these pieces! They must be on the cutting details, but they do not participate in the matter of combining the pattern. Only the main part, without allowances, of the cut parts.
For frills that will be laid in pleats, pleats and corrugations, the pattern pieces are laid out along the grain or cross thread.
The length of the cutting details for frills that will be folded into pleats, pleats or corrugated folds depends on the type, and therefore the depth of the folds that will be made on the frill (needs to be calculated).
Sew the frill.
When a one-piece frill cut piece needs to be “turned” into a ring, short, cross-sections of one full-cut frill cut piece are joined with a ground stitch.
And when a whole, large frill needs to be made up of separately cut parts, the sections of these parts are also connected with a stitch seam.
Seam allowances for such joints are left from 0.5 to 0.7 cm, depending on the fraying of the sections.
And they are sewn together with a seam.
Of course, it will be best if the seam allowance cuts, no matter how many there are, are treated to prevent fraying. Frills are loose details, or almost free. Their movements are almost unrestricted, and it is not at all suitable if protruding threads are visible from under the flying frills and from the seams.
A high-quality product is considered to have a frill that is evenly gathered along its entire length. There are two ways to achieve this result.
First. Having gathered the top edge of the frill to the length of the stitching line, use your hands to evenly distribute the resulting folds.
And after that, using pins and a hand basting stitch, we begin to attach the top edge of the frill to the main product.
Second way. We lay stitching lines on both sides, along the upper edge of the frill, two hand stitches with straight stitches.
We pin the frill to the main part. First the edges, then the middle, then the middle of two sagging segments, again the middle, again formed, but in four smaller segments, etc.
And when the frill is securely and evenly attached to the main part, all that remains is to pull the ends of the laid hand stitches and secure the assembly to the product with pins and a hand basting stitch.
This is the article I have today!
Good luck everyone! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!
Frills, flounces and ruffles are an ancient invention for decorating clothes, bedspreads, curtains and other products and giving them a crafty lightness and coquetry. Any simple curtain becomes very cute and cute if you sew a flounce or frill to it. In principle, sewing these decorative additions is not too difficult, but it requires accuracy and consistency in execution.
Ruffles made from hard and thin soft fabrics have different cutting and sewing technologies. For rigid ruffles, the fabric is cut along an oblique or transverse thread (cut along the lengthwise, they will puff up). Fabric that is too stiff is not squashed, but folds are placed on the fabric and sewn on. Thin and soft fabrics cut along the grain thread.
First you need to measure the piece of fabric to which the frill will be sewn. For a thin frill, cut along a transverse thread, fabric is taken twice as long as the length of the segment where the frill will be sewn. If the frill is cut on the bias, then it will take one and a half times more fabric. Very long frills have to be sewn together.
When cutting, you need to make sure that the pattern at the places where the fabric joins necessarily matches. A poorly fitted check, ornament, stripe looks very ugly and sloppy - the joints are immediately revealed. Sometimes it takes real skill to cut out long frill pieces that fit together beautifully. The joints of the strips are sewn down with a linen seam and the lower edge of the resulting strip is immediately processed: either hemmed by hand with a blind seam, or simply hemmed by machine.
Then they begin to gather the resulting frill strip. Along the upper edge of the frill, retreating 5 mm, two rows of parallel stitches are laid. They are either sewn on a machine using a double stitch with a distance of 5-8 mm between the rows. Then the stitches should be long and free. Or they lay the stitches by hand: in this case, on the contrary, they try to make the smallest and densest stitches possible (beaded stitch).
If the frill is long, then it is collected into several threads and each thread is carefully gathered - this will guarantee that the thread will not break when pulled together. Then they pull the threads and assemble the “accordion” of the frill to the size of the length of the product.
In order for the frill to turn out beautiful and evenly wavy, it is divided into several equal sections: first folded in half, then in half again. The sewing line on the product is divided into the same number of parts. Then apply the frill to the sewing line and connect the marks with pins. Each piece is once again carefully pulled together and the folds are straightened, then basted. Now you can sew the frill completely.
If frills made of thin fabric. then the front side of the frill is placed on the front side of the fabric and stitched from the side of the frill, carefully straightening the folds under the machine foot. The seams are ironed “on the edge” towards the product and processed with a zigzag. The frills are ironed with the sharp end of the iron perpendicular to the stitching.
Thick fabric ruffles heavy and can pull the seam along with it. In this case, an additional fastening stitch is laid along the front side of the product at a distance of 2 mm from the fold.
You can cover the open gathered section of the frill with braid or edge trim, sewing it in two lines. The braid is attached to the product with one line along the edge seam.
The shuttlecock is performed with or without assemblies.
Shuttlecock without gathering cut out on fabric in the form of a ring. The diameter of the inner ring should be equal to the length of the product plus seam allowances. Sometimes a shuttlecock is cut out in the form of a spiral - it then holds its shape better.
Shuttlecock with ruching cut out in the form of a straight strip, but at an angle of 45 degrees to the grain thread. Its length is calculated in the same way as the length of the frill.
These are the same frills, but narrower and with two gathered edges. Before sewing the ruffle to the product, you must first hem both edges. Therefore, in patchwork sewing for ruffles, ribbons or braid are most often used, where the edges are already sealed. If you need to cut out a ruffle from fabric, then the strip should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees to the grain thread. In the transverse direction, ruffles are cut out only when the fabric pattern requires it. The amount of fabric for the ruffle is calculated in the same way as for the frill.
Ruffle “in two frills”, decorated with braid: on the left – gathering of the ruffle, on the right – processing of the ruffle with braid
The most commonly used ruffle is “two frills”. The ribbon is sewn onto the front side of the product. Having calculated the required length of the ribbon, lay two rows of stitches in two threads in its center, preferably in the color of the ribbon itself. Then the tape is gathered and pinned to the sewing line on the product so that the intended line is between two rows of stitches. They scribble on it.
You can remove the constriction stitches, but you can also decorate the ruffle with braid. It is applied in the middle line to the machine stitch and attached either in the middle or on both sides.
Frill cut from the main or finishing fabric at an angle of 45° to the warp threads (less often - in the longitudinal or transverse direction) with a width of 1.5 to 30 cm, depending on the model. The length of the frill is 2-4 times longer than the line of its stitching.
Shuttlecocks They differ from frills in that they are much wider and are cut out mainly in a circle. The smaller the inner cutout of the circle, the larger the tail is formed. The length of the flounce along the inner line should be equal to the length of the line of its stitching or greater. The hems of these types of trims are processed in various ways depending on the model and fabric: a hem seam with a closed cut, a double hem seam, piping (roll), lace, etc.
To form gathers on the finishing parts using a machine, you should increase the length of the machine stitches and loosen the tension of the top thread so that the bottom thread is easily pulled out of the fabric (wind a thicker thread onto the bobbin). On the front side of the part, lay two parallel lines: above the stitching line and below it. The distance between the lines is 0.4-0.6 cm. Fasten the ends of the threads (top and bottom) to the left edge of the part, and pull the ends of the threads from the right edge until the cut of the frill or flounce is equal to the length of the stitching line. Distribute the resulting assemblies evenly along the entire length of the part or along the model.
To build manually, above and below the line of connection of the frill with the product, lay two parallel lines with a minimum stitch length, grabbing the same threads of the fabric. Pull it together with threads to the required length and secure the ends of the threads. Having distributed the gathers, sew the frill to the product or main part. After stitching, remove the auxiliary stitches.
The assemblies can be made straight (Figure 14a) or scalloped (Figure 14b).
Frills and flounces can be stitched (Figure 14c), stitched (Figure 14d) and sewn between two parts or into a fold allowance (Figure 14d). In order to stitch a frill, mark a stitching line on the front side of the main part, apply the frill with the front side inward (in the opposite direction from its location in the finished product), baste and stitch, distributing the gathers. Then fold the frill down and iron the seam.
Quilling(Figure 14f) differs from frill in that it processes not one, but both cuts. Ruffles can be simple or shaped. Ruffle sections are processed in the same ways as frill sections. For a simple ruffle, cut a strip of fabric at an angle of 45° to the warp threads or along a transverse thread 3.5-4 cm wide and one and a half times the length of the stitching line. After processing the ruffle sections, in the middle or closer to the edge, lay two parallel hand or machine lines with loosely tightened stitches. Pull the bottom threads of the stitches and distribute the resulting gathers along the entire length of the ruffle. Sew it onto the main part between parallel lines, which are then carefully removed.
Buffs
Unlike assemblies, buffs are made not along the edge of the part, but on the part itself. According to the method of execution, there are ordinary puffs, with a cord, and “waffle” puffs.
Ordinary hand puffs (Figure 15a) are made from the wrong side along the folds of the fabric with stitches over the edge with an interval of 0.5-0.7 cm between them using thread numbers 10, 20. Machine puffs (Figure 15b) are made along the marked lines on the front side of the part with using a special shirring foot or slightly loosening the upper thread tension. Gather the fabric by pulling the threads and distribute the resulting gathers evenly over the entire area of the part. Fasten the ends of the threads. Sew a lining from the main fabric on the wrong side. Do not iron the puffs.
For a puff with a cord (Figure 15c), stitch the piece from the front side along the marked lines, placing strips of fabric underneath, then pull the cord in, gather the fabric into gathers, and secure the ends of the cord.
For “waffle” puffs (Figure 16a), on the front side of the part, apply vertical and horizontal lines at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from one another or just mark the points of their intersection (Figure 16b). Puffs are made on yokes, cuffs, etc. Their shape can be very diverse.
Fasten the end of the silk thread from the wrong side, bring the needle to the front side, grab the fabric at two parallel points of intersection of the lines and fasten the thread with two or three stitches back to the needle, then, without breaking the thread or tightening it, bring the needle to the wrong side near the fastening, and then to the front one at the point of the next parallel row, again fasten the two points, doing the fastening in a checkerboard pattern, etc.
"Waffle" buffets can be made in another way. From the wrong side, sew stitches, catching the fabric at the points of intersection of the lines (Figure 16c). Then tighten the threads until an “accordion” is formed (Figure 16d). Fasten every two folds on the front side in a checkerboard pattern with two or three stitches across the edge using a thin silk thread to match the main fabric, bring the end of the thread to the wrong side and secure with a knot. Do not iron the “waffles”. To protect the “waffle” puffs from stretching and deformation, sew a lining of thin cotton fabric on the wrong side of the part.
Puffs can be replaced with tucks. Calculate their width and the distance between them so that the lined part in its finished form corresponds to a similar pattern part (yoke, cuff).
Undercuts
Undercuts are a type of dart and at the same time an element of finishing. In cutting, one of the hem cuts is longer than the other, i.e. has an allowance for gathering or folds (pintucks). The sides of the undercut are connected with a stitch or adjustment seam.
Gather the cut side of the undercut with an allowance. After the assembly is formed, the sides of the cut should be equal in length. Fold the part along the hem with the front side inward, aligning the snares and control marks or cuts, sweep and stitch from the assembly side, distributing it across the model. The seam width is 0.7-1 cm. Minimize the stitching seam, ending the stitching 1-1.5 cm further than the end of the undercut. Remove the running stitches, overcast the seam and iron it towards the part without gathering.
When making an adjustment stitch, the width of the joint seam may be less than the width of the finishing stitch, resulting in the undercut seam not falling under the adjustment stitch. To prevent this from happening, a strip cut from the main fabric should be placed under the gathered part on the wrong side, and then a finishing stitch should be placed on the front side
