Costume of Spain 19 20 in presentation. Presentation on the topic "traditional folk clothing"

The term “Spanish costume” in its original existence belongs to the period from the 15th to the 19th centuries. Rigid frame suits that came into fashion at the court of the Spanish Habsburgs in the 16th-17th centuries. had a great influence on the style of other European royal courts. The contradictory aesthetics intertwined knightly ideals, the etiquette of the royal court and the asceticism of the Catholic Church. On the one hand, this is a typical Renaissance emphasis on the natural shapes and proportions of the figure, on the other hand, there is a requirement to hide the body as much as possible.

Men's Spanish suit

In the Spanish costume, for the first time in Europe, a frame was used in the form of a quilted lining made of cotton wool, sawdust, and horsehair, onto which all parts of the clothing were stretched.

The main elements of a men's suit were a shirt, tunic, short pants, and various types of raincoats.

Shirt had a ruffled collar and high cambric cuffs trimmed with lace.

Collet, or hubon, is a short jacket to the waist or hips, a fitted silhouette with a front clasp, a stand-up collar, narrow sleeves with shoulder pads and a cut-off peplum. Gradually, the height of the collar increased, a ruffle was added along its edge, the size of which reached 15-20 cm by the end of the 16th century. This is how the famous Spanish ruffled collar appeared.

Hip pants, or bragette, had a spherical shape, often trimmed with decorative fabric in the form of vertical stripes, which were fixed only in the upper and lower parts and hung freely. Under the bragette they wore calles - tight trousers and stockings.

As outerwear wore short and long wide raincoats, with or without a hood, one of the varieties of the cloak was the ropa - a swinging garment that was worn unbuttoned or buttoned high under the neck. It was distinguished by decorative hanging sleeves and shoulder pads.

Women's Spanish costume

The women's suit had a triangular, clear and graphic silhouette. The dresses were cut at the waist, with a closed bodice of a complex cut and a corset. With the help of a corset, the natural convexity of the chest was flattened. The bodice ended in a long pointed cape at the front. A cone-shaped metal swivel was sewn to the bodice; two skirts were pulled over it, the top of which had a triangular slit in the front. Thus, the silhouette of the suit consisted of two triangles, the vertices of which were connected at the waist.

Dresses were often decorated with chest inserts in the form of a mesh of gilded cords and strands of pearls.

The sleeves were narrow, long, double, the upper one was made of a different fabric and had slits along the entire length, widening at the bottom. In both men's and women's outfits, the shoulder line was artificially expanded due to shoulder rolls and an enlarged sleeve head.

The mesenteric collar of a woman's shirt had a specific shape; it opened in front, exposing the neck. However, closed collars of different widths with different drapery were also used.

Unlike aristocrats, city women did not use metal frames for skirts and corsets. They wore shirts, narrow bodices with detachable sleeves, and skirts folded in large pleats or gathered at the waist.

Spanish folk costume

The Spanish folk costume in the form in which it became part of the culture developed in the 18th-19th centuries. It was during this period that elements of folk costume began to be actively used by representatives of the aristocracy.

The men's suit included a short jacket ("figaro"), tight-fitting pants to the knees, a short vest of bright colors, a sash that intercepts the waist (usually red and up to 30 m in length), a cocked hat, stockings, shoes with buckles, and a raincoat.

This is what a bullfighter's costume looks like these days.

The women's suit used similar elements: a fitted jacket with wide lapels (without a corset), a long wide skirt with many frills, a mantilla with a comb, a fan, a shawl.

This is what a flamenco dancer's outfit looks like these days.

The classic element is the mantilla, which is a lace silk cape that covers the neck, head and chest. The mantilla was worn over a high comb, which was stuck into the hairstyle strictly vertically. Nowadays, almost every woman tries on a mantilla at least once in her life, as it is now known as a veil.

Fabrics and colors

The most common are patterned (embroidered, printed) fabrics, with gold and silver patterns on a rich background. In most cases, colors in a suit are combined according to the principle of contrasts. The ornament can be different, but most often it is floral colors and polka dots.

Jewelry, hairstyles, shoes

Men wore short-cropped hair, beards and mustaches; felt hats, berets, and red caps in the form of Phrygian caps were put on their heads.

Women made various hairstyles from long hair, which mainly collected on the back of the head. Hairstyles were decorated with hairpins and combs.

In both women's and men's attire, many eye-catching accessories were widely used: pearl necklaces, earrings, rings, jewelry belts, chains, buckles, buttons, cameos. The costume itself often became just a background for them.

Men's shoes were soft shoes made of leather or velvet, without heels. Women also wore shoes made of soft leather, satin or velvet, decorated with embroidery, with heels from the end of the 16th century.

Spanish costume today

Today, the Spanish style of clothing is characterized by the following wardrobe elements:

A white blouse. This should not be a strict shirt-cut blouse, but a delicate blouse made of soft airy fabric, always with cuffs, frills, lace or frill. A classic ruffled stand-up collar would also be appropriate. The main condition is femininity.
Long skirt. A Spanish skirt can be neither short nor tight; it is usually flared from the middle of the thigh, soft flowing fabric, and a flowing silhouette. The fabric does not have to be bright; it can be dark and plain, with a printed or convex pattern.
Wide pants. Skirt-pants or very wide flared trousers in dark colors, plain, with longitudinal stripes or checks. Floral prints and other drawings are not welcome.
Bright red evening dress. Complete freedom is allowed in the cut, silhouette and shade of the dress; it can be multi-layered, with a bottom consisting of several skirts.
Summer sundress with floral pattern. Flowers should be large and bright, on a light background. This sundress can be complemented with a large-brimmed hat or scarf.
Corset. It can serve a variety of roles: a vest made of black fabric and worn over a blouse, a lace-up top, etc.
Accessories. An iconic accessory of the Spanish style are artificial flowers: hair clips in the shape of a flower, a flower pinned to the collar of a blouse, jacket or to the belt of a dress. But there should only be one flower. Another accessory is a large wide shawl with long fringes and a bright pattern.

Video - Spanish dance

Spanish flamenco dance in national Spanish costumes.

Where can I buy a Spanish costume?

Flamenco costumes are in greatest demand, since flamenco is the hallmark of Spain. Flamenco skirts can be purchased at dance supply stores.

With the help of a Spanish costume you can emphasize the national characteristics and flavor of Spain. This is an ancient country of Phoenician origin, which was formerly called Iberia. It is located on the Mediterranean coast and was under Roman rule for a long time, and then converted to Christianity.

Spanish costume - the luxury and beauty of a fiery dance

The Spanish costume came into fashion in the 15th century. It was the Renaissance, which dictated its terms. At that time, chivalric ideals, the morals of kings and the severity of the Catholic Church, for which everything was sinful, were in fashion.

Natural and proportional shapes were important in clothing, but they were hidden as much as possible from prying eyes so as not to succumb to temptation. At this time, at the noble Habsburg court, the term “Spanish fashion” appeared, which was later adopted by many royal families Europe. For noble people, tailors sewed frame, voluminous and heavy suits. They were difficult to wear, as they covered almost the entire body and hampered movement. There was no freedom in women's clothing.

The triangular suit resembled a case in which the woman was hidden. According to legend, this style was invented by the Queen of Castile, Juana of Portugal, so that no one would know about her pregnancy. Thanks to a royal invention, the Spanish still long years they wore rich and luxurious dresses that were uncomfortable and bulky.

Women's dress– beauty of geometric shapes

Spain has become a trendsetter in European fashion. The clothing of representatives of the royal court of the Renaissance had its own characteristics:

The figure and silhouette resembled a triangular frame.
Dresses were sewn with a bodice and a tight, closed corset to hide the natural shape of the breasts.
At the front, the bodice had the shape of an oblong cape. The frame was created from bent metal wire, which was covered with expensive fabric.

Two tight skirts were attached to the bodice. They were sewn from taffeta and placed parallel to each other.
The overskirt had a V-neck and the underskirt had metal hoops. Skirts were thrown over each other.
An outer dress with a slit was thrown over the skirts. It was fastened with loops and tied with a bow.
The dress was decorated with pearls and mesh, into which gold threads were woven. All of this was used as inserts.

With the help of a corset, the waist was narrowed and the stomach was thickened. A narrow plate was attached to it, which served for these purposes.
Women's clothing had long double sleeves, which were made from different fabrics. The sleeve had a slit along its entire length and expanded at the bottom, like wings.
The shoulders were artificially enlarged with the help of special rollers and an upper sleeve.

At that time, women were not allowed to walk with an open neck and décolleté - so the collar was a real salvation and a special decoration for them.

It was round, corrugated and made of white thin ruffle. At first the collar was small - no more than 15 cm, but over time it became fashionable to wear large collars - up to 30 cm.

The outfit was complemented by various decorations, for example, beads, a fan, a belt with a buckle, or headdresses. Under the dress, the lady wore shoes with massive wooden soles. They were decorated with patterns of nail heads. The thickness of the shoes indicated a sign of aristocracy and nobility of a person. The shoes were made from genuine leather

, velvet or satin and decorated with patterns or embroidery. They were not supposed to peek out from under the dress, except for wooden shoes that could be visible up to the ankle.

Fabrics and materials

The strict etiquette of Spanish society in the 16th and 17th centuries dictated its conditions not only for clothing, but also for material:
At that time, bright, colorful fabrics with patterns were common. Silhouettes of animals, religious symbols and heraldic signs were used as designs.
The color scheme was varied. The prevailing colors in clothing were black, brown, gray, white, red, purple and green.
The clothes were additionally decorated with golden threads, cords, ribbons and brocade lace. All this was sewn onto the suit in different directions.

At the end of the 16th century, smooth, plain textiles were in fashion.

Time and traditions preferred to dress differently from noble ladies. They had a different fashion, which formed the basis of the traditional Spanish folk costume. We can judge this from the paintings of the famous Spanish artist Goya, who used bright colors and unusual lighting in his work. He is one of the first to sing the praises of the woman Macha, a city dweller who is the prototype of the famous Carmen.

The clothing of ordinary women of the mid-17th century consisted of the following elements:

Women wore colorful dresses without corsets and did not use metal frames for skirts. The bottom of the dress had large folds and fluttered freely in the wind.
The shirts had a lace-up bodice and bodice. The sleeves tapered downwards. They could be tucked up to the elbow or completely removed.
A fitted jacket was worn over the dress.

An important attribute a rectangular ridge was considered. They had their hair pinned up. The comb was carved, 20 cm high, with several teeth. It was made from ivory or turtle shell. Women in the provinces wore this hairstyle.
A special decoration was the mantilla. This was the name of the long lace veil that was worn over the comb. Unmarried girls wore a light mantilla, and women wore a black one. For special occasions, they wore a long veil that completely covered the entire back. The veil was not used in dances, or there was a shortened version of it.

The outfit was completed with a folding fan. It was a real work of art, as it was made by hand. The base of the fan was made of wood. It was covered with silk, velvet or soft leather. Some fans were decorated with lace.
In a woman's costume, details were important: large earrings, flowers and hair combs.

About Spanish folk costume

As the years passed, the Spanish outfit changed: city women stopped wearing some elements at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. For example, the mantilla and comb, called peineta in Spanish, became part of the royal clothing. Now these details are perceived as historical: they can occasionally be seen on national holidays, carnivals or weddings.

The national Spanish costume is part of the culture of Spain. Each region of the country has its own clothing features:

In the south, in the countryside, the Spanish dance flamenco. When people hear this word, they imagine an image of a passionate woman in a red outfit. Flamenco was created and passed on to other generations by the gypsies of Andalusia. They preferred to dress expressively for dancing to highlight every movement. The dancers have narrow waists and multi-layered skirts, with flounces and drapery. Their arms are open or completely closed.
In the center of the country, girls wore traditional Spanish dresses or a shirt with straps over which they wore short light jacket The head was covered with scarves or capes.

In Valencia, women's costume consists of a light silk dress with an apron. On the head there is a thin openwork scarf with a pattern, which is secured at the back with a bow. The outfit is complemented by light stockings and low-heeled shoes.
In Catalonia, girls prefer to wear open skirts with patterned aprons. Their figure is emphasized by a white lace bodice, and their shoulders are covered with an openwork shawl. Thin gloves reaching to the elbow are put on the hands. On the head is a mantilla.

The Galician women's outfit consists of a long-sleeved blouse and a flared red skirt with longitudinal dark velvet stripes. A small or large apron with lace and beads is put on the skirt. A delicate shawl is draped over the shoulders. The head is tied with a scarf.
In the north of Spain, the national women's dress is in calm colors and with modest patterns.
The costume of women from Upper Aragon includes a cream shirt with a fluffy sundress.
In Lower Aragon, festive clothing consists of short skirt pleated, apron and blouse with short sleeves, over which a shawl is thrown.

In the rhythm of fiery dance: modern trends

Spain is a country with rich culture and traditions. Modern women's national costume has inherited many historical elements. The traditional outfit is elegant, with interesting decorations. It is decorated with gold and silver embroidery and multi-colored stones. It can still feature patterned buttons, wide belts and large collars. The following details are appropriate in a women's Spanish costume:

White or soft cream blouse, made of light fabric, with cuffs, frills and lace.
Long, flared from mid-thigh, skirt made of soft fabric. It can be with or without convex patterns.
Red dress with several flounces.
Summer sundress in light colors and with a pattern of large bright flowers. It is complemented by a wide-brimmed hat or scarf.
A corset in the form of a black vest or lace-up top.
Details: artificial flowers on the belt, on the hair or on the collar.
Colorful airy shawl with fringes.

Residents of the sunny country like to dress original and casually. Their bright clothes with expressive details can create a memorable image and give guests a festive mood.

Flamenco dance that became business card Spain is loved by many peoples. It is included in the program of many events to bring a piece of Spain and introduce it to its national flavor. Recently, matinees and festivals have been held in various educational institutions, for example, in kindergartens or schools. By choosing carnival outfits, you can create a beautiful and appropriate stage image. The national Spanish costume for a girl includes all the details of a woman's image.

There are two types of flamenco costume:

The first option is a dress with an oval neckline and flounces or a multi-layered gypsy-style skirt. You can wear any blouses or tops under it.
The second option is a special bata. This is a plain skirt with long train behind. Its style depends on the style of dance. Bata allows you to move freely around the stage, as it does not hinder fast movements. It makes it easy to create spectacular image dancing Spanish woman

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Female figure found herself shackled in a corset with metal or wooden planks. The corset had a long shnip - a protrusion ending acute angle, thanks to which the flat chest smoothly and invisibly transitioned into the skirt. A crinoline was put on the hips - a frame of several conically decreasing in diameter circles hanging on leather belts, which gave the skirt immobility and the correct conical shape - vertugaden (From the Spanish “vertugado” - branches from which rigid reinforcements on the skirts were made (1468)).

The female figure was shackled in a corset with metal or wooden planks. The corset had a long shnip - a protrusion ending in an acute angle, thanks to which the flat chest smoothly and invisibly passed into the skirt. A crinoline was put on the hips - a frame of several conically decreasing circles in diameter, hanging on leather belts, which gave the skirt immobility and a regular conical shape - vertugaden (From the Spanish "vertugado" - branches from which rigid reinforcements were made on skirts (1468)) .

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The patterned or smooth fabric of the costume was appliquéd with gold-embroidered ribbons and “drawn” with geometric precision in rectilinear patterns with “gold” and “silver” threads and pearls.

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Slide 15 Men's Spanish costume of the 15th-16th centuries Knights of other European countries took part in the struggle of the Spaniards during the Reconquista period, and thus direct communication contributed to the spread of many forms of men's costume that existed among the French or Italians. These primarily include elements of the Gothic costume: shoes with long socks, some types of hats, a long sleeveless surcoat. Most outerwear was middle length

, calm, one might say, noble forms. The cloak was a mandatory part of a Spanish man's costume, and its length varied depending on age and social status. Usually one side of the cloak was draped over the shoulder. The ceremonial clothing, called “kasaka,” was long and wide.

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To give the hubon the shape of armor, pieces of cardboard were inserted in front. The front of the hubon was especially convex in the 70s and 80s. At the same time, his stand-up collar is made so high that it props up his chin and earlobes. A ruffle is made along the edge of the collar, the size of which gradually increases and by the end of the century reaches 15-20 cm. Thus, the ruffle turns into a “grangolu” or gorguera - the famous corrugated Spanish collar. Throughout the 16th century, the shape of the calces also changed.

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As early as 1530, Titian painted a portrait of Charles I (V) in a suit with narrow calces slightly above the knees, and in 1542 he depicted Philip II in rich clothes embroidered with jewels, and the king's calces were already made on a small frame. In the 70-80s, double calces came into fashion, consisting of narrow, tight-fitting pants to the knees and round, thickly padded “gregescos” that covered only the hips.

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Spain is a country with a rich history and culture. Perhaps many people have delved into the study of traditions, flamenco and spectacular bullfighting at least once in their lives. Among other things, it is of great interest National clothes Spanish people.

Throughout the Middle Ages, traditional costume underwent regular changes, ultimately securing its position as one of the most striking and impressive.

In our article we will talk in detail about the historical aspects of the formation of traditional costume in Spain.

A little history

The development of the traditional costume of Spain took place over the 15th-19th centuries.

In the 16th century At the court of the Spanish Habsburgs, rigid frames for costumes came into use; they were popular throughout the century until the 17th century. They influenced the development of costumes in other European countries.

The formation of the main traditional features of the costume was influenced by the knightly image, etiquette of the royal court and religion. The costume emphasized the naturalness and harmonious proportions that were characteristic of the Renaissance, but, on the other hand, there were special criteria for hiding the body.

Suits have always sought to expand the shoulder line with the help of special rollers or an elongated shoulder line. Already in the 18th and 19th centuries, more modern version outfit, items of which are present in modern models of national costume.

Varieties

Female

Suits for ladies have always been distinguished by clear and regular lines and a triangular silhouette. The dresses had a corset, tightly cinched at the waist, and a closed neckline in the form of a bodice of complex cut.

They tried to make the breasts visually less voluminous with the help of a corset. The front part of the bodice ended with a pointed cape. A metal swivel was sewn to the top, on which two skirts were put on. The upper part had a high triangular slit and revealed the underskirt, which was always a different color.

Of course, dresses were decorated with various kinds decorative elements, in the form of strings of pearls, gold threads and decorative nets of threads.

The sleeves of the dress were usually long and double. The bottom layer was narrow, and the top layer could vary, for example, it could have a slit on the fold where the hand was inserted. Usually the second sleeve had a looser or flared shape, with the edges of the sleeve hanging gracefully. The women's outfit had a mesenteric collar; it had a cutout in the front and opened the neck.

The costume we described was typical for representatives of the aristocracy.

City residents did not use corsets or frames for skirts. Their costume consisted of a shirt, a narrow bodice, detachable sleeves and skirts with big amount folds and gathers.

Later, in the late 18th and 19th centuries, women's attire looked a little different. It was a fitted vest with wide lapels, no corset, a floor-length skirt with pleats, a mantilla, a comb, a fan and a shawl.

An integral element is the mantilla - a cape with lace that covers the chest, shoulders and head. The comb was attached high to the hair in a vertical position, and the mantilla was covered on top.

Male

The traditional costume for men in Spain consisted of a shirt, short pants, a jacket and a cloak.

The shirt was decorated with a ruffled collar and high cambric cuffs decorated with lace.

The shortened trousers were spherical in shape, sometimes complemented with decorative fabric in the form of vertical stripes. Such trousers were also called bragettes, and tight stockings called calles were worn under them.

A tunic, also known as a hubon, was a short jacket that reached the waist or mid-thighs. It had a fitted cut, front closure, stand-up collar and tapered sleeves with padded shoulders and a cut peplum.

This collar was the prerequisite for the appearance of the corrugated collar. Its usual shape gradually became larger in size, and ruffles and lace were added to it. So, at the end of the 16th century. it was already up to 20 cm in size.

Raincoats were a variant of outerwear, and had a variety of shapes. They could be short or long, with a hood or without a collar at all. The most popular were cloaks, they were worn unbuttoned or with one clasp under the neck. The cloak was always decorated with shoulder pads and spectacularly hanging wide sleeves.

It was in Spain, for the first time in Europe, that a frame in the form of a quilted lining made of cotton wool, horsehair and sawdust was used. Clothes were put on such a frame.

Later, men's attire underwent significant changes. Now it included a short jacket - figaro, tight trousers approximately knee-length, a vest, a sash covering the waistline, stockings, a cocked hat, a raincoat and shoes with buckles.

Children's

Basically, children's costumes were similar to adult clothing. Boys wore short pants with leggings and a shirt.

For girls, a flared skirt, a shirt and also collars of a specific shape were selected. Unlike adult costumes, children's costumes were distinguished by more contrasting shades and the presence of patterns.

Peculiarities

Colors and patterns

The color scheme of clothing changed depending on the historical period of time. At the beginning of the Middle Ages these were pale, non-colorful shades: black, brown, gray and white. Also present were relatively bright shades: purple and green.

In the 19th century, costumes were characterized by bright colors, such as red. Often, clothes were decorated with gold or silver patterns. Mostly they were flowers or peas.

Fabrics

Usually, smooth, plain fabrics predominated in clothing production. In the 18th and 19th centuries, patterned fabrics, embroidered or printed, became widespread.

Religious motifs and animals were often used in the patterns. The fabrics were also decorated with ribbons, stripes and a lot of lace.

Cut

As we have already noted, the suits had clear lines, which were used to create trapezoidal silhouettes and flared styles.

All wardrobe items had a loose fit, including men's trousers and shirts.

Accessories and decorations

Males wore felt hats or cocked hats, berets, and red caps similar to Phrygian caps.

Ladies decorated their hair in different styles with hairpins and combs.

Both in women's and in men's suits decorations were always richly displayed. These could be necklaces made of pearls, belts made of precious metals, earrings, rings, belts, unusual fastener buttons, chains, cameos, etc.

Shoes

Men wore shoes without heels, mostly made of soft leather or velvet. From the middle of the 16th century. There were changes in the shape of the shoes, the toes of the shoes became sharper. Slits were made on the velvet shoes, through which the colored lining was visible.

Women's shoes were very diverse. They were also made of soft leather, velvet or satin. From the middle of the 16th century. High-heeled shoes have already begun to appear.

Women have always tried to hide their shoes with their skirts. The exception was shoes with thick wooden soles. The thickness of the sole indicated the well-being of the lady.