A few decades ago, the choice of yarn for knitting was so small that you had to get out of the situation and combine different threads yourself. Indeed, despite the fact that materials for needlework were minimally available, craftswomen still produced handmade masterpieces.
Nowadays, many yarn manufacturers offer section-dyed threads and melange. Let's figure out what the difference is between these two types of yarn and tell you about rules of knitting with sectional yarn.
So, melange yarn can be of absolutely any quality, that is, composition. The main difference from all other thread options is that the finished thread consists of two or more thin threads of different shades or even colors.
Sometimes there are variants of melange- sectional yarn.
If the yarn options that are offered in ready-made stores do not suit you in color or other characteristics, then you can easily create your own melange yarn. It is enough to select the required colors of threads and connect them into one ball. For the best possible result, you should use an electric spinning wheel, which will twist two or more threads into one.
Sectionally dyed yarn includes all threads that have a non-uniform color throughout the entire skein. Sections of different colors are combined into one skein of yarn. It could be completely different variants. For example, small pieces of yarn are dyed different colors. This coloring option can be called briefly sectional.
You can knit completely different products with this thread, just like when working with regular yarn of a uniform color.
But thread with long sections of different colors is used in work according to several rules, following which you can achieve exceptional results.
When knitting unpaired simple items, such as a scarf or hat, there are no special working conditions. But when knitting socks or mittens, it is worth considering that they should be symmetrical, that is, the same.
To do this, each product must start with the same piece of thread. Let's say we start knitting socks with yellow color. In this case, they should turn out the same. This rule only applies to yarn whose sections are long enough. With short sections, you don't have to start with one color. The difference between socks or mittens of the same pair will not be noticeable.
When working on a raglan sweater, it is best to start the sleeves in the same color.
If sectionally dyed yarn is used on products with seams, then it is worth considering that the back and front of the product must match the color of the seams. It is for this reason that it is best to knit such products from the bottom up.
There is no need to worry that during the washing process, items made from melange yarn or sectionally painted ones will lose their appearance and fade. If you follow the care recommendations given by the manufacturer, the yarn perfectly retains its original appearance.
We hope everything worked out for you.
Share your result with us and leave comments.
Author Marina Nikitina.
You can often find that any yarn that is not smoothly dyed is called melange. But not all variegated yarn is melange. One of these variegated threads is section-dyed yarn. In this article I want to pay special attention to section-dyed yarn, consider its properties and the features of knitting from such yarn.
Knitting from sectionally dyed yarn allows you to make both a variegated and striped fabric, which cannot be said about knitting with melange thread. Knitting from melange yarn allows you to make only a variegated fabric.
To obtain section-dyed yarn, the yarn is dyed after spinning. The color palette, as well as the length of the color segment, may vary. But there is a certain rule: even if the length of the color section is different, the color sequence must always be repeated.
Section-dyed yarn allows needlewomen to create a huge variety of patterns without using many multi-colored balls. But it should be noted that knitting from such yarn is very difficult, because when you start knitting from section-dyed yarn, you often cannot predict what kind of pattern you will get in the end. Even knitting a sample will not always help you with this.
According to the length of the color segment, section-dyed yarn is divided into:
The short length of the color segments allows you to get a variety of colors when knitting geometric figures. This yarn behaves unpredictably. It is difficult to replicate a model from a magazine and often results in sloppy stains in the wrong place. The color scheme in symmetrical parts turns out to be asymmetrical; the side seam is clearly visible in the product. When changing the number of loops, the pattern becomes distorted. Randomly scattered spots of color sometimes spoil the silhouette of the product.
Long sections of color segments when knitting make it possible to obtain stripes. This yarn behaves quite predictably.
It should be noted that knitting from the same ball gives a different result in the pattern when crocheting or knitting.
What to look for when buying section-dyed yarn
Firstly, of course, you need to pay attention to the length of the color segment, because the color pattern of the future product largely depends on this. The shorter the color segment, the more colorful the product will be. With long color segments, the product will turn out striped.
When choosing yarn, be sure to consider what you plan to knit with it. Fine-section and medium-section yarn are suitable for small items such as scarves, hats or children's items. Mid-section and long-section yarn will be good for jackets and sweaters, various capes, as well as stoles and shawls.
Secondly, pay attention to the relationships between the color segments in the skein. Different colors in a skein can have different lengths. If preference is given to one color in the ball - it has a longer segment or is repeated more often, then in the product this color will set the tone of the entire product.
Third, it is advisable to purchase section-dyed yarn in large skeins, and also pay attention to the direction of the color change sequence when winding in skeins. All this will allow you to make the transition from skein to skein unnoticeable.
Rules for knitting from section-dyed yarn
You can knit from section-dyed yarn like you would from regular plain-dyed yarn, without thinking about what pattern you will get in the end. In this case, the pattern can be chaotic, giving the product originality and uniqueness.
But if you want to get a certain pattern, then when knitting you should pay attention to some rules when working and follow them:
Dimensions: 62-68 (74-80/86-92) 98-104
You will need: yarn (100% cotton; 125 m/50 g) - 150 (150/200) 250 g white-green-blue sectional dyeing; knitting needles No. 3.5 and 4; long circular knitting needles No. 3.5; 3 small buttons with a diameter of 1 cm.
Elastic band (knitting needles No. 3.5): alternately knit 2, purl 2.
Main pattern (knit stitch, knitting needles № 4): front rows - front loops, purl rows - purl loops.
Garter stitch: knit front and back rows.
Knitting density: front stitch – 22 p. x 28 r. = 10 x 10 cm.
Important: knit the model with two balls for better distribution of colors. To do this, alternately knit 2 rows from each ball.
Back: On knitting needles No. 3.5, cast on 60 (68/76) 86 loops and knit 2 cm with an elastic band. Then switch to needles No. 4 and knit with the main pattern. After 15 (18/21) 23 cm from the initial row, close on both sides for the armholes, 3 stitches and in every 2nd row. close on both sides another 3 x 2 p. = 42 (50/58) 68 p. After 25 (30/35) 39 cm from the initial row, close the right 30 (36/42) 50 p., and on the remaining 12 (14 /16) 18 sts, knit another 1.5 cm for the placket. Then close all the loops.
Before: knit like a back, but with a neckline. To do this, after 22 (26/31) 35 cm from the initial row, close the middle 12 (12/14) 16 stitches and finish both sides separately. First, continue knitting 15 (19/22) 26 sts along the left edge = end of the row. To round the neckline at the beginning of each front row, bind off 1 (2/2) 4 x 2 p. and 1 (1/2) 0 x 1 p. After 25 (30/35) 39 cm from the initial row, bind off the remaining 12 (14/ 16) 18 shoulder stitches. Then continue knitting for 15 (19/22) 26 sts along the right edge = beginning of the row. To round the neckline, close at the beginning of each purl row 1 (2/2) 4 x 2 p. and 1 (1/2) 0 x 1 p. At the same time after 23.5 (28.5/33.5) 37.5 cm from the initial row continue to knit for the placket in garter stitch and in the 1st row. make 2 holes for buttons as follows: 2 (3/4) 5 p., 1 yarn over, knit 2 p. together, 4 p., 1 yarn over, knit 2 p. together, knit the remaining loops. In the purl row, knit yarn overs. After 25 (30/35) 39 cm from the starting row, bind off the remaining 12 (14/16) 18 shoulder stitches.
Sleeves: On knitting needles No. 3.5, cast on 38 (42/46) 46 loops for each sleeve and knit 2 cm with an elastic band. Then switch to needles No. 4 and knit with the main pattern. For side bevels, add sleeves every 8th r. (alternately in every 6th and 8th r. / in every 6th r.) alternately add in every 4th and 6th r. from the elastic on both sides 4 (6/9) 13 x 1 p. = 46 (54/64) 72 p. After 16 (19/22) 26 cm from the initial row, close on both sides to roll up the sleeves 3 p. and in every 2nd r. bind off another 3 x 2 sts. After 18 (21/24) 28 cm from the initial row, bind off the remaining 28 (36/46) 54 sts.
Assembly: Stretch the parts, moisten them and let them dry. Place the left shoulder strap under the front strap and pin. Use a mattress stitch to sew the right shoulder seam. Sew in the sleeves. Side seams and sew the seams of the sleeves with a mattress seam. For the neck strap, using knitting needles No. 3.5, evenly cast on 64 (68/72) 76 sts along the edge of the neck and knit 1.5 cm with an elastic band, while at the beginning of the 1st r. make the 3rd hole for the button as follows: 2 p., knit 2 p. together, 1 yarn over, knit the remaining loops of the row. In the next row, knit the yarn over according to the pattern. Then close all the loops according to the drawing. Sew buttons.
Difficulties begin when the number of loops changes: knitting necklines, armholes, darts. For beginners, I recommend choosing models with a simple cut, without darts, with rectangular armholes and a neckline. Then we reduce the armhole strictly by 1 pattern repeat (by large size– for 2 rapports) – this will allow you to maintain its regularity. We do the same with the neck.
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If the neckline turns out to be too wide, it can later be corrected with additional binding, lace and other types of trim. We also knit the sleeves rectangular; their width should be a multiple of the pattern repeat.
A more complex option is products with vertical darts. In the sample, the jacket has waist darts formed by decreasing - increasing along the side line and in the middle of the details. The number of loops becomes variable, moreover, the changes affect the center of the canvas. Naturally, the rapport breaks down.
In my case, I didn’t fight it, but made it a design element. Vertical stripes on the hips and waist give way to a motley pattern at the waist, imitating a wide belt. Above the “belt” the pattern again reaches a regular rapport. To support the concept, a variegated pattern was also chosen for the sleeves. Also, with a variegated pattern, it is easier to knit the head of the sleeve (I tied the sleeves because I didn’t like the fit).
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Please note that the patterns on both shelves and the back are almost the same (only the colorful “belt” at the front is a little wider). And because We make a turn along the edges in the middle of the rapport, then the side seam is completely invisible. Compare with magazine model
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Further, the product has deep vertical chest darts and a \/ neckline. If the decrease in loops in each row is approximately a quarter of the repeat (in my case - 4 loops), then the pattern is not broken, but begins to shift - the stripes become inclined. We also try to make the most of this effect.
Red crosses indicate decreases that form the chest dart
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Additional adjustments may be required at the edges:
1.increase-decrease 1-2 stitches (the unevenness of the edge will then hide the seam)
2. Pulling out part of the thread until rapport is restored (as in the previously described case with defects).
3. Sometimes you can allow a shift of half a repeat - then in some areas, instead of alternating white and blue, you get two white or two blue rows in a row (this is almost invisible in the drawing).
It is extremely difficult to ensure complete symmetry on both sides of the figured panel. Therefore, we make every effort to maintain a regular pattern in the most noticeable areas. In our case, a flawless neckline is necessary, and slight deviations can be allowed at the armhole line. It is this edge that we use for correction.
We also make a decrease along the armhole line based on the requirements of the pattern along the neckline.
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As a result, the stripes on the shelves gradually become slanted from vertical, which wonderfully emphasizes the neckline and chest line. You must admit that it is difficult to knit such a pattern simply by alternating several colors of yarn. It would require longitudinal knitting with a complex system of increases and decreases. In the case of using sectionals, these stripes are determined by the yarn’s own print and the model lines of the jacket and arose almost automatically. All it took was an understanding of the “character” of the drawing and reasonable adherence to it.
I hope that my experience will help you in some way!
The variety of yarn allows craftswomen to experiment and create unique things. Modern ones have many names that differ in composition, color and properties.
Sectional dyed yarn can be classified as fancy due to its interesting and sometimes unexpected color solutions. The good thing about this yarn is that you don’t need to select and combine colors for the product yourself.
Single-color sections can be short or long, allowing for control over the knitting. Yarn (sectional yarn) with short sections produces a bright, slightly variegated fabric. This thread is ideal for knitting children's clothes or accessories - scarves and hats. Large sections fit into the product in wide, well-combined stripes.
Knitting from section-dyed yarn can be done either by crochet or knitting. Depending on the chosen tool and working technique, a fabric knitted with the same thread may look different.
Knitting with yarn (sectional yarn) always begins with choosing the ideal yarn composition and color combinations. Fortunately, there are many options - almost all major yarn manufacturers produce a sectional line. The most famous of them:
Handicraft magazines and thematic websites offer many patterns that can be used to knit from sectional yarn. Models vary in complexity and styles, but even the simple execution of some models due to complex coloring thread makes things original and stylish.
The “sectional section” produces not only beautiful large items, such as dresses and jumpers, but also small accessories, for example, sets of hats and snoods, knitted knee socks and socks. For small products, yarn with short sections is more suitable, for large ones - with long sections.
It is better to start knitting from yarn (sectional yarn) with a simple product, for example, the now very fashionable bactus. On it, the colored sections will reveal themselves in the most advantageous way due to its triangular shape.
Bactus can be knitted with knitting needles or you can get an original product in the style of Bosnian knitting. The scarf begins to be knitted from one edge, gradually widening and then shortening the rows where the bactus narrows.
You can start working with knitting needles from the center, gradually expanding each “wing” of the bactus. The finished product can be decorated with tassels or fringe.
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